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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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radiator or water pump

hey guys, quick question on overheating problem
im overheating mostly at highway speeds...idling it stays at 190
i checked both radiator hoses today with a IR gun and they bother were around 170 ish so i know there is a problem
here is my thought process...the water pump is a victor jr and pretty new. so i was going to take it off and check the impellers to see if something got into during the engine swap, to make sure they were turning first
if that was ok i guess its a new radiator.
Anything else you guys thing I should check?

68 Camaro RS/SS, 454 BBC,TH400,
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 03:21 PM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Ya gotta tell us a LOT MORE about your setup. What engine, car? What did you change??? Everything.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: radiator or water pump

ok, new 68 camaro, just put in a new 468 about 550 hp, had a 396 before..the cooling set up is the same one. 4 core radiator, victor jr alum water pump electric 14 inch fan. this same set up worked well on the 396. what other info do you need my friend

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 03:32 PM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Did you paint the car recently? I have seen a lot of painted radiators causing problems.

How a bout a radiator flush? Tried that? Get the tee in fitting and flush it with a garden hose.

Are you running a fan shroud? If not, get one.

The water pump is probably good, but you can clean it if all else doesn't fix the problem.

How about the lower radiator hose? Is the metal spring that keeps it from collapsing intact?

Getting a recore is cheap and easy at a radiator shop. They have higher efficency designs that sometimes don't work with high volume pumps. Make sure and tell them you have a high volume pump. You can't go wrong with more cooling capacity.

How is your thermostat? Does it stick?

How about your radiator cap. It couldn't hurt to change it if it hasn't in a while. A pressurized system is important.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 03:53 PM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Overheating at highway speeds is usually airflow or retarded timing.
While a fourthgen or a vette could have highway speed airflow problems (due to debris on the core) pretty easy, sound kinda farfetched in a firstgen.

Where's your timing (at hwy rpm)?
Do you run vacuum advance?





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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: radiator or water pump

just put a high flow 160 stat in...
I have flushed the radiator
the electric fan has a shrowd and it seems to blows ALOT
havnt painted the radiator ..um
lower radiator hose has the metal spring in it, doesnt colapse when car is running
As i said in getting IR GUn readings of 170 on bloth the top and bottom radiator hoses? they are suppose to be like a 20 degree diffrence arent there to show that the water flow and cooling working?

its a water flow issue isnt it? ........i think i need to go with a big alum radiator and check the water pump...idunno???

oh my timing is set initial at 14 and total around 34....I have a vacum advance as well

thanks for all your help so far guys!!!!

68 Camaro RS/SS, 454 BBC,TH400,

Last edited by Atth2o; Apr 13th, 08 at 04:35 PM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 07:01 PM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Thanks for the extra info. OH, that 14" fan would be great on a VW! You need 18" with a clutch, 7 blade driven by the crank. Yep. Stock stuff.
And don't forget to use a small pulley on the waterpump. It turns FAST that way.
Edit, are those advance settings with the vacuum advance disconnected? They would be OK if so. The vacuum is just for economy (and running cooler) on the street.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Re: radiator or water pump

i dont want to go with a stock set up, electric fans is what im looking for
so your saying i need like 2 11inch fans or a big 18 inch electric fan and that should do it??

68 Camaro RS/SS, 454 BBC,TH400,
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 06:57 AM
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Re: radiator or water pump

If it were me I would start by replacing the 160* thermostat with a 180* at the least. A 160, IMO, does not allow the engine to heat up properly in order to burn off the condensation that builds in the crankcase. I see you run a TH400, but what gearing do you run? I experienced the same issue. Around town it would run fine(180* or so with a 180* thermostat), but when I got on the highway it shot up to 220*-230*. I run a Powerglide and 4.10 gears so my RPM's are high on the highway. This was with a 14" fan and no shroud, a 3 core radiator, and stock W.P. I switched to an aluminum 2 core radiator, a high flow W.P., a 16" fan with shroud, and a high flow balanced 180* thermostat and the problem never returned. I can run at 4000-4500rpm on the highway and the engine never gets hot. One thing to note, the fan switch. If you run a 160* thermostat then you will need a switch that turns on a 180* and off at 165*. I strongly suggest changing to a 180* thermostat at the least. You will find that the 180* is the most commonly used model in here(I believe). With the 180*, you will need the switch to turn on at 200* and off at 185*. The radiator needs to be the WIDEST unit you can fit. NOT THE THICKEST. It is a misconception that the thicker the better, but if you think about it, by the time the air had gone through a 4 or 5 core unit, the air has heated up again. I run a small block and installed the big block unit in my car. I had to open up the core support to allow for the WIDER core. You may have to do so as well. THE WIDER THE BEST.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 09:54 AM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Just a thought, I once had a van that would over heat at highway speeds. It turned out to be a loose, slipping fan belt.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 01:43 PM
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Re: radiator or water pump

It's hard to think of much to add. You've gotten good advice here. My stuff is mostly original. The radiator is an exact copy of my original except made of aluminum. Same thickness of course. At the strip or on the street it can't be made to overheat. Even idling in the garage. Did I mention mostly original? Or at least the same as,,,,, Did you pick up on the pattern?

I couldn't post that old picture anymore. Sorry. I took this ten minutes ago. The top picture will probably update because I didn't change the name.

Yep, both the same.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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Last edited by Fred Ficarra; Apr 14th, 08 at 02:05 PM.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 02:10 PM
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Talking Re: radiator or water pump

Hey Fred,

The car looks great but, that overflow hose has to go !

69 Camaro -originally a LM1 car. 327, Edelbrock E-streets, hooker, DUI performance distributors, ultradyne cam, stewart, TRW etc. Vintage Air, AGR steering, Corbeau GTSII seats, 700R4 transmission, 12-bolt w/Eaton 4.11:1
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: radiator or water pump

i think charlie has the closest thing to what i got going on. im running 456 gears so it rev's high on the freeway, so his scenario sounds pretty exact to what i got going on...so im going to start the transition over to that direction...ill keep you guys posted on what happens and I do thank you all for your help on this..

one thing....what is the diffrence between a 180* high flow stat and a 180* 'Balanced' High Flow Stat?

Rob

68 Camaro RS/SS, 454 BBC,TH400,
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 06:48 AM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Rob, go to the Stewert's website. That is where I buy my thermostats from. They have great info on thermostats and cooling in general. Standard thermostats are affected by coolant flow. Balanced thermostats are designed around the "high flow" theory and work much better with higher flowing W.P. Now, I may be off a little on the exact description of a "balanced" thermostat, but some high flow W.P.'s won't work correctly unless you pair it with the proper thermostat. It would probably be best to ask the guys at Stewert's exactly what a balanced thermostat is. I do know that they aren't afected by the increased flow rate like a standard thermostat is. High flow thermostat's usually have holes drilled into them to allow coolant to flow ALL THE TIME, no matter if it's closed or open. Does you thermostat have three small holes drilled around the outer perimeter? I usually run that style in the summer and switch back to the normal style(without the holes) during the cold months. The holes make it take a LONG time to warm up and also drastically affect your heater function. I found that out the hard and cold way.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 07:02 AM
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Re: radiator or water pump

Rob, what temp is your fan switch set to turn on the fan? Definately switch to the 180* thermostat. I know what you are thinking. I run a 160* now and it runs hot, what's going to happen if I up it to a 180*? Once you get all the other factors in order, the 180* is going to allow your engine to get to a more consistant temp and also allow it to burn off the condensation that builds up in the oil(condensation is unavoidable). Install the 180*, the fan turn on isn't as important as when it's set to turn off. You have to make sure the switch turns the fan off at a temp that is hotter than the thermostat lets the cool down to. For example, I had the 180* stat, but my first fan switch was on at 185* and off at 170*. Once my fan came on, it NEVER shut off because the stat couldn't get the coolant temp down to 170*. Once I switched to the 200*-on and 185*-off, everything was perfect. The car can idle in 100* weather in my driveway or traffic or run at 4000-4500rpm on the highway and the car NEVER goes above the fan turn on temp. As far as the radiator, if you are going to replace it, buy the WIDEST unit you can possibly fit. I had to open up my core support, but it was worth it. I got a big block unit installed and I don't have any problems. The thick rad's look nice, but by the time the air has traveled through all the cores, it's heated up again. Also, I was told that the tranny cooler is another "HOT" spot. If you have the ability, use an external tranny cooler and DO NOT mount it in front of the radiator. Mount it off to the side and use a fan to cool it. The heat from the tranny fluid heats up the air moving across the rad and heats up the coolant. Now, I didn't do that part and I haven't experienced any issues so you may get lucky with that part like I did. I just use the internal tranny cooler in the rad, but if you plan on using both the internal and an external, then you may run into problems. The extra heat from the external unit may be too much and cause you to run hot. Keep us posted. I really want to know how things work out.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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