Small block rods - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Small block rods

I bought a 327 in pieces the other day. All the resized rods are in a box. It's been a while, but the wide flat parts of the big end go against each other, right? Other than that, there's no "front" or other orientation to worry about, right? Just checking. Thanks.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 06:26 PM
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Re: Small block rods

Jim,
On a Chevy engine the easiest way remember is that the bearing locating "tangs" go out towards the oil pan rail.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 06:39 PM
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Re: Small block rods

Other then the tangs, the chamfered radius on the journal rod end is installed facing outwards toward the crank counter weights. This is to accommodate the radius on the journal of the crank. You will note that most rod insert bearings will also have this chamfer aswell.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 08, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Small block rods

Thanks guys!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 08, 05:00 PM
 
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Re: Small block rods

And the oil holes go towards the cam if they still have them?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 08, 05:45 PM
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Re: Small block rods

And remember the pistons can be different too. 4 eyebrow flatops don't matter, but if you have 2 valve relief pistons, you'll have 4 left sets and 4 rights. If you're assembling with floating pins, you'll need to pay attention to this.





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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 08, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Small block rods

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Originally Posted by JimM View Post
And remember the pistons can be different too. 4 eyebrow flatops don't matter, but if you have 2 valve relief pistons, you'll have 4 left sets and 4 rights. If you're assembling with floating pins, you'll need to pay attention to this.
Out of curiosity, why would floating pins be any different than pressed? Wouldn't I have to worry about it either way?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 08, 08:10 PM
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Re: Small block rods

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Originally Posted by go2fast View Post
Out of curiosity, why would floating pins be any different than pressed? Wouldn't I have to worry about it either way?
I assume that you, like me, do not have the equipment to press our own pins.
"someone" does have to worry about it, that someone is the machinist who is hired to do the pressing.

All "we" have to do is make sure the chamfers are out for both rods on each crankpin.





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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 08, 08:24 PM
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Re: Small block rods

Yes you need to worry about it either way. I don't want to put words in Jim's mouth but I think he was just thinking most folks don't fool with press fit pins at home. I do em at home but if I goof one I consider the piston trash. I'm not good enough to get em back apart without tearing hell out of em. I get the rod back but I'm usually huntin another piston. Maybe a few I've not trashed, very few. Crap is brittle.

I suggest laying everything out and getting thoroughly familiar with it. The pistons may have notches you put forward, and then you have to pay attention to the eiieeiie pattern of the valves(if the vr's aren't identical)...in addition to getting the left bank rod chamfers forward and the right bank chamfers to the rear. If you're dealing with a set of un-numbered rods it makes it easier, you just put 4 left bank rods on 4 left bank pistons etc.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 08, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Small block rods

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
I assume that you, like me, do not have the equipment to press our own pins.
"someone" does have to worry about it, that someone is the machinist who is hired to do the pressing.

All "we" have to do is make sure the chamfers are out for both rods on each crankpin.
OK, I see now. I do have a press at home. I got tired of having to get others to do my stuff years ago.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 08, 04:29 PM
 
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Re: Small block rods

If the pistons are stock type, 4-notch, install them backwards so you get the usual .060" pin offset better under the rod thrust!

Doing so will allow them to cold-slap more until they are warmed up, but I figure a little noise is worth the better rod angularity up top.

And this is an old "shade-tree" trick..

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