What would you recommend I do now? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy What would you recommend I do now?

I have a 68 with 350 I built about 6 years ago. It hasn't been started now for over a year as I've been doing major body work. I have the 4 speed out of it. We had a major cold freeze this week. It got down to 8 below. Now I see a drip of coolant coming from the bottom right side of the radiator. It's been through at least 5 winters and I thought I had enough antifreeze in it but maybe not for that extreme cold.
I can't start it w/o reinstalling the trans I wouldn't think. I'd rather not do that until I've welded up the new floors. I sure hope I haven't hurt the block. Should I drain it and remove the lower hose to drain the block as much as that will? Would it help to turn it over? Would it hurt to do that (without starting it) if I don't have the trans in?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 02:36 PM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

just start checking bolts & hose clamps things get smaller in that temp. ive seen this before hope thats all it is good luck
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 03:38 PM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Pick up a tester and see how good the antifreeze is, they are really cheap. I hope it's sufficient.
If you have a block heater cord hidden in there, plug it in.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 03:49 PM
 
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

If it isn't coming from the block and such, you should have nothing to worry about. If you have 50/50 mixture your are protected to about -20. As ssdoug said, things do get smaller. Metal will constrict the colder it get, so tighten your clamps and see if that works. And if you are really worried, bolt your starter back up and connect your wires and then run it till it get to atleast operating temp. Before hand, check your antifreeze rating, change it if need and then run it. It will not hurt to start your motor with out the transmission.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 03:54 PM
 
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Also, go to AutoZone and use the pressure tester from the loan a tool program they have. Use that on your radaitor, that will save you time if you don't want to put your starter in and run your motor. The pressure testor should show you where and if you have a leak.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 09, 09:10 PM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

It sounds to me like your radiator might be going south on you. I really doubt you are having engine freeze problems. I wouldn't do anything until you are ready to go...other than either putting a pan under the drip or draining the radiator so you can use the pan for other things.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 09, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

As it sits I really don't want to start it. It's up on ramps and jack stands. The trans is out and the rear of the engine is supported by an angle iron bolted to the bottom bell housing trans holes. The exhaust is disconnected but headers are still on. Starter is still on and I could turn it over. I don't want to put the trans back in until I finish welding up the floor but with these temps that won't be until spring.
I'm afraid freezing may have caused a split in the radiator which would be a bummer since I bought a new 3 core when I put the 350 in. (was a 6 cyl).
If I want to drain it, would it hurt to turn it over for a minute or so using the starter? I probably should remove the throw out bearing first.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 09, 07:42 PM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

I would just remove the lower radiator hose and let it drain. Cranking it over won't do anything. There are block drains on each side of the block but they are usually very tight and you end up destroying them if you do try to get them out. Most all of the coolant will drain from the lower hose and I really don't think your block is hurt. You might want to get the radiator pressure checked though. It sure should have lasted longer than that.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 09, 09:06 PM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

If you do not drain the block through the block plugs, you won't get any water drained below the bottom water pump holes in the block. There is still a good bit of water in there (just food for thought).

Keith
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:01 AM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

The block drains need to come out if you want ANY of the coolant in the block to come out. Pulling the lower hose will only get to the level of the attachment point of the water pump and hose. The amount of coolant left in the block below the water pump holes is substantial. About a gallon+ total for both sides.

If the leak is coming from the radiator and not the lower hose, then the radiator may be cracked. Like Joe 74 suggested, go get yourself a radiator pressure tester. That will show you any leaks in the system, whether it be a lower hose, heater hose attachment or backing plate on the water pump.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

But won't turning it over with the starter cause the water pump to pump out what's in the block?

On second thought I guess it will only pump out until the level in the block is lower than the inlet to the pump, right?
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:09 AM
 
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Even though you have the car up on jack stands and ramps, plus having the motor held up the way you do (as long as it is secure, I do it will less). It will not hurt to start it up and run it, that is if you feel it is a must. Test your antifreeze. Most likely there you are protected if it is mixed right and have nothing to worry about with your block. Do the pressure test. If you find that it is coming from the radiator, then I recommend you draining it and check your warrenty paper work on the radiator. You might still be covered.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Yeah I think it will wait until spring now. Last week was the coldest it's been in 10 years and the drip has all but stopped.

Thanks for the input
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:13 AM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
But won't turning it over with the starter cause the water pump to pump out what's in the block?

On second thought I guess it will only pump out until the level in the block is lower than the inlet to the pump, right?
Once the level gets down below the water pump holes, it won't have anything to pump, so all that coolant below it will remain.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Jan 19th, 09, 09:15 AM
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Re: What would you recommend I do now?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Winch View Post
Yeah I think it will wait until spring now. Last week was the coldest it's been in 10 years and the drip has all but stopped.

Thanks for the input
Yeah, but did the drip stop because it stopped or if the coolant isn't mixed properly or if it's worn out, it could have frozen. If it's frozen, then you will be in for some damage. The little bit of time it takes to properly check is worth the little bit of time you will be in the cold. Bundle up, get your coveralls on and do it right.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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