Carburetor Rebuild - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 09, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
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Carburetor Rebuild

My dad and I disassembled my 2GV carburetor last night and I have a question. The choke butterfly was staked on one side (the accelerator side) and we filed the staking off. What do we do upon re-assembly? Do we solder the end or what?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 09, 04:04 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Jeff as a rule you wouldn't touch the butterflies at all. Now you'll have to braise it back on to the post it was attatched to with a fine torch.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 09, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

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Originally Posted by Nantooch View Post
Jeff as a rule you wouldn't touch the butterflies at all. Now you'll have to braise it back on to the post it was attatched to with a fine torch.
Not the butterflies in the throttle body... the big choke one at the top of the bowl cover. I'll upload a picture in a little bit to show you what I mean.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 09, 10:55 AM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Those are what I'm talking about. The butterflies in the throttle body are held in with screws.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

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Originally Posted by Nantooch View Post
Those are what I'm talking about. The butterflies in the throttle body are held in with screws.
Yeah, I realized after I had disassembled the carb that I didn't need to remove that staking and the parts underneath it. Oh well, I got it back on without too much trouble.

So, it's all together and got it back on the car and tuned up yesterday evening after work. I have a slight issue, though. When driving, starting from a stop, the engine stumbles VERY slightly as soon as I tip into the accelerator (whether lightly or heavily, it stumbles the same). Anyone have any ideas as to what would be causing this?

Everything else runs very smoothly and it does not stumble any other time. If I am moving and tip into the accelerator, it does not stumble - probably because it's not from idle. Timing is dead on. Dwell is right where I want it (28). All cylinders are firing.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 12:04 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

First, recheck float level - low level can cause this.
The 'fill slot' for the pump does not get enough fule spilling in to give a good refill and shot.

Taking for granted the new pump assembly was the same length, usless you just replaced the rubber plunger seal, and there is not to much play in the accelerator pump linkage...
Recheck the Pump Linkage adjustment to be sure it is moving the pump as soon as you start to open the throttle - you can bend the 'pump rod' (between the throttle lever and the pump lever) so it is a bit longer (think 'taking out the bend slightly) and it actuates the pump a bit sooner.
The only other item in this system that can effect this is the condition and type of pump check-ball and the spring system.
You removed this to clean (didn't you?) and there was a replacement ball in the renew kit - you need to make sure the spring and retainer pressed back into the hole correctly AFTER you put the correct ball into the hole.
You should compare the original and the replacement ball to make sure they are the same size/type/wieght or the pump shot will be effected...
The ball seat should also be checked during rebuild to make sure it is not corroded or any dirt/gunk remains as it can cause the ball to stick.

You normally don't need to remove the screws from Cross-shafts when doing routine rebuilds - but, since you did - just put "Red" Loc-Tite on the screws and you will be fine
You can even put a drop on the screw side of each and let it go - they will probably never fall out and if they did they wouldn't do much...
I've found them missing on more than a few units with no problem

Hope some of that helps...

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage 68 View Post
First, recheck float level - low level can cause this.
The 'fill slot' for the pump does not get enough fule spilling in to give a good refill and shot.

Taking for granted the new pump assembly was the same length, usless you just replaced the rubber plunger seal, and there is not to much play in the accelerator pump linkage...
Recheck the Pump Linkage adjustment to be sure it is moving the pump as soon as you start to open the throttle - you can bend the 'pump rod' (between the throttle lever and the pump lever) so it is a bit longer (think 'taking out the bend slightly) and it actuates the pump a bit sooner.
The only other item in this system that can effect this is the condition and type of pump check-ball and the spring system.
You removed this to clean (didn't you?) and there was a replacement ball in the renew kit - you need to make sure the spring and retainer pressed back into the hole correctly AFTER you put the correct ball into the hole.
You should compare the original and the replacement ball to make sure they are the same size/type/wieght or the pump shot will be effected...
The ball seat should also be checked during rebuild to make sure it is not corroded or any dirt/gunk remains as it can cause the ball to stick.

You normally don't need to remove the screws from Cross-shafts when doing routine rebuilds - but, since you did - just put "Red" Loc-Tite on the screws and you will be fine
You can even put a drop on the screw side of each and let it go - they will probably never fall out and if they did they wouldn't do much...
I've found them missing on more than a few units with no problem

Hope some of that helps...
Thanks for the info John! So, here's the thing about the ball. I never took one out of the pump. I suppose it is possible that it fell out without me noticing, but I was trying to be very careful about that. Also, there was a note in the rebuild kit instructions that the ball did not go on such and such model (I don't have the instructions with me right now; I don't remember the exact wording). All I ever took out of the accelerator pump was the spring (which was cleaned with everything else and replaced appropriately as far as I can tell, and the plunger. A new plunger came with the kit, so I transferred the cleaned spring and retainer clip to the new plunger after I verified the plungers were basically identical. There was no ball in the bottom. I still have the aluminum ball in the kit. Should I drop it in?

Bear with me... this was my first carb rebuild.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 12:48 PM
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Red face Re: Carburetor Rebuild

I've done a "few" and never ran across one without the discarge check ball
There is only one ball in any 2G/GC/GV I've ever seen - the one under the spring.
Doesn't make any sense for there to be a spring without something for it to hold down...
So I would remove spring and install ball.
Assembly should be:
1. ball
2. spring
3. retainer ('T' shaped thingy)

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage 68 View Post
I've done a "few" and never ran across one without the discarge check ball
There is only one ball in any 2G/GC/GV I've ever seen - the one under the spring.
Doesn't make any sense for there to be a spring without something for it to hold down...
So I would remove spring and install ball.
Assembly should be:
1. ball
2. spring
3. retainer ('T' shaped thingy)
Ah. I think we are talking about two different balls here... I know about the steel ball under the small spring and T retainer. My kit came with a replacement ball, spring, and retainer and I used the replacements. However, there was a second ball in the kit. It was a little bit smaller and was aluminum (less shiny and checked with a magnet). Apparently on certain Rochester models (maybe not mine?) it goes down in the area beneath the plunger. That spring is quite a bit larger though and wouldn't hold the smaller aluminum ball at all. Maybe a mesh screen would hold the ball down on models that required the ball in that area?

So, if I am not supposed to use the aluminum ball on a 2bbl Rochester (and I didn't), what's next?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 01:14 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

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Originally Posted by jkaufman View Post
... would hold the ball down on models that required the ball in that area?

... what's next?
Okay, some HD carbs did have a bottom-fill slot with the check ball in the base retained by a strap...

Next:

1. recheck float level to be sure it is high enough

2. readjust the pump lever so there is no free-play and it actuates the pump as soon as the throttle is opened.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 02:00 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

I remember that little ball, spring, T thing. It's the same in a Q-jet, right? Isn't the purpose to keep the pump chamber full of fuel? Seems to me if the surface that the ball seats in is dirty or otherwise corroded, fuel would/could leak back into the float bowl, screwing up the accel pump shot. It's been awhile.


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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage 68 View Post
Okay, some HD carbs did have a bottom-fill slot with the check ball in the base retained by a strap...

Next:

1. recheck float level to be sure it is high enough

2. readjust the pump lever so there is no free-play and it actuates the pump as soon as the throttle is opened.
Okay. I will check those things when I get home from work. I know how to check the float level and drop, but what is the best way to check that the pump lever is actuating the pump as soon as the throttle is opened? Just move the pump lever by hand? Or just watch/feel it while I open the throttle by hand? Or?

Thanks!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 05:04 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Hold the choke butterfly open with one hand and operate the throttle linkage with the other while looking down the throat of the carb. The SLIGHTEST movement of the throttle should produce a squirt of fuel.


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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by BPOS View Post
Hold the choke butterfly open with one hand and operate the throttle linkage with the other while looking down the throat of the carb. The SLIGHTEST movement of the throttle should produce a squirt of fuel.
Okay. Easy enough. So, if no fuel is squirted out, do I modify the pump rod so that it actuates earlier with the throttle?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 09, 06:15 PM
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Re: Carburetor Rebuild

Correct. You shouldn't have any play between the pump lever and the actuating arm from the accelerator linkage. It should be instantaneous. Just make sure that the pump arm isn't depressing the pump. It's only to be just to it otherwise your defeating the purpose of the pump by limiting the amount that of gas that squirts in as the carb cycles between idol and off idol circuits.

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