Oil pan gasket leak on new engine? - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 10, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 524
Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

Maybe have 20 miles on it and it is already leaking oil, see pic:



What are my options here? I have tried tighten the bolt some but that did not help. Do I need to change the whole gasket out? How hard is it to change the gasket with the engine installed? Thanks

1969 Camaro SS
Black Z is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 10, 05:24 PM
Senior Tech
Don
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 202
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

Are you sure its the pan gasket?
Could be coming from above, (intake or valve covers)
BrewHog55 is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 10, 06:20 PM
Senior Tech
Ron
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Channel Lake Huron
Posts: 3,934
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

It is not uncommon for Pan Gaskets to leak after a new rebuild, especially if you use an aftermarket or one that has be torched modified. Looks like you have the Fel-Pro Thick Blue Rubber Pan Gasket with the metal core - Excellent choice.

To verify the leak - Clean the area with a degreaser like Mean Green and hose off. Place the front of the car on Jack Stands and run the engine - you should spot the leak.

While the engine is cooling loosen and Re-Torque ALL the Pan Bolts. The Pan will Shape and eventually seal. I doubt if you will have to follow this procedure more then once but it has happened.

You will have slightly more Crankcase Pressure before the rings are seated. As Don states - look at other sources for leaks and your PCV System is working.

Z15CAM - There was a Viper in my Rear View
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

This was my 70 1/2 Z28

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by Z15CAM; Jan 11th, 10 at 06:39 PM.
Z15CAM is offline  
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 10, 06:33 PM
Senior Tech
george
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: detroit
Posts: 2,291
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

Cork and rubber here with a little silicone in the corners=dry.
I have no luck with the one piece blue fel pros..they all failed at the timing cover/pan interface due to excessive crush that lead to splitting.Differant pans and covers..still the same.Seems like the gasket thickness up front is to thick by .125".

George
68 Camaro
8-71 blown 461 Rat on E-85
fatblock is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 10, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 524
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

Positve it is the pan gsket. I cleaned it twice already and it appears in the same spot. Should I do one bolt at a time, unbolt then retorque or loosen all bolts then retorque as I go around the pan? Should I try to put some more RTV sealant in that corner?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Z15CAM View Post
It is not uncommon for Pan Gaskets to leak after a new rebuild, especially if you use an aftermarket or one that has be torched modified. Looks like you have the Fel-Pro Thick Blue Rubber Pan Gasket with the metal core - Excellent choice.

To verify the leak - Clean the area with a degreaser like Mean Green and hose off. Place the front of the car on Jack Stands and run the engine - you should spot the leak.

While the engine is cooling loosen and Re-Torque ALL the Pan Bolts. The Pan will Shape and eventually seal. I doubt if you will have to follow this procedure more then once but it has happened.

You will have slightly more Crankcase Pressure before the rings are seated. As Don states - look at other sources for leaks and your PCV System is working.

1969 Camaro SS
Black Z is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 10, 01:28 AM
Senior Tech
Ron
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Channel Lake Huron
Posts: 3,934
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

When the pan is warm loosen the end bolts at the corners then start in the middle alternating side to side - loosen one at a time and re-torque working your way to the 4 corners. Once done repeat the sequence.

The purpose is to stretch and flatten the entire Pan Interface as that corner may be warped.

A quarter inch ratchet with extensions should do the job - don`t be afraid to make sure it`s tight but watch that you don`t flatten the gasket or dimple the pan bolt bosses.

You should not require a sealer, but if after 2 processes and it still leaks, you will likely have to split the seal and clean thoroughly with a De-greaser and Lacquer Thinner. Do not use Silicon - use RTV or Form-A-Gasket Compound applied with a Thin Flat Edge (like a Feeler Gauge).

When initially installing a pan I dab RTV at the obvious 4 locations where the Timing Chain Cover and Rear Main Cap intersects; however, before this I apply a thin film of RTV on the Rear Main Saddle and Rotate the Rear Main Seal about 1 quarter inch with a dab of RTV on the tips. I use the torquing procedure described above and repeat it several times before installing the engine.

Aftermarket and altered pans usually require re-torquing after the engine has run in order to stretch the warps out.

Z15CAM - There was a Viper in my Rear View
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

This was my 70 1/2 Z28

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by Z15CAM; Jan 12th, 10 at 03:11 AM.
Z15CAM is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 10, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 524
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

Should I drain the oil to do this? Also what is the torque spec for the pan bolts? 8-10 ft lb?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Z15CAM View Post
When the pan is warm loosen the end bolts at the corners then start in the middle alternating side to side - loosen one at a time and re-torque working your way to the 4 corners. Once done repeat the sequence.

The purpose is to stretch and flatten the entire Pan Interface as that corner may be warped.

A quarter inch ratchet with extensions should do the job - don`t be afraid to make sure it`s tight but watch that you don`t flatten the gasket or dimple the pan bolt bosses.

You should not require a sealer, but if after 2 processes and it still leaks, you will likely have to split the seal and clean thoroughly with a De-greaser and Lacquer Thinner. Do not use Silicon - use RTV or Form-A-Gasket Compound applied with a Thin Flat Edge (like a Feeler Gauge).

When initially installing a pan I dab RTV at the obvious 4 locations where the Timing Chain Cover and Rear Main Cap intersects; however, before this I apply a thin film of RTV on the Rear Main Saddle and Rotate the Rear Main Seal about 1 quarter inch with a dab of RTV on the tips. I use the torquing procedure described above and repeat it several times before installing the engine.

Aftermarket and altered pans usually require re-torquing after the engine has run in order to stretch the warps out.

1969 Camaro SS
Black Z is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 10, 07:09 PM
Senior Tech
Steiner
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lyman, SC
Posts: 8,348
Re: Oil pan gasket leak on new engine?

With all that RTV on it it may never seal without cleaning it all off. New RTV will not stick to old RTV. Also, RTV is not rated for use on rubber gaskets.

I had the same type leak on the front of mine with a one piece seal. I used Permatex 2B non hardening to fix it. I wound up jacking the motor up, removed all except the back two bolts which I only loosened, pulled the pan down, cleaned the rail with brake cleaner, cleaned out the bolt holes with q-tips soaked in brake cleaner, smeared Permatex 2B all the way across the front lip, put Permatex 2B on the bolts, and reinstalled all of them.

I can't remember but it seems like the small bolts get around 10 ftlb and the four large ones get 13 ftlb. The one piece gasket has inserts to keep you from deforming the lip by overtightening....up to a point.

'69 Camaro
Dart 400-AFR 195-224/224 HR-Powerjection III TB with F.A.S.T. Sportsman XFI
TKO 600-Moser 3.42-Detroit Truetrac
500hp/538lbft

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

'69 Camaro Beater-SFT 327-M20-Moser 4.10-sold
'02 Z/28 vert-stock-sold and totaled
Steiner is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome