1969 engine blocks - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 10, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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1969 engine blocks

I was wondering if there is any difference between 1969 4 bolt and 2 bolt blocks metal. And is it worth having a 2 bolt drilled for 4 bolt mains verus getting a 4 bolt block. THANKS
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 10, 08:31 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

There is no difference in the metal. As far as 4 bolt mains it all depends on what you are building. If I were building a high revving high horse motor and were using the factory casting, I would rather have a 2 bolt block drilled and tapped for splayed 4 bolt main caps.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 10, 08:40 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

On small blocks,you cant put factory 4 bolt caps on a 2 bolt block{except 400's} the 2 bolt main cap registers are narower then he 4 bolt.You can do aftermarket caps.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 10, 09:25 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by msicks View Post
I was wondering if there is any difference between 1969 4 bolt and 2 bolt blocks metal. And is it worth having a 2 bolt drilled for 4 bolt mains verus getting a 4 bolt block. THANKS
Whats the casting number? 386? 010?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rafbody View Post
There is no difference in the metal. As far as 4 bolt mains it all depends on what you are building. If I were building a high revving high horse motor and were using the factory casting, I would rather have a 2 bolt block drilled and tapped for splayed 4 bolt main caps.
Nothing wrong with a factory 4 bolt with the "2482" caps, If they say "2482" on them they are NODULAR caps. Much better than std 4 bolt caps

I would use ARP studs with the higher clamping load on the "2482" caps

On STD 4 bolt main caps I would use GM bolts or Milodon Studs or Milodon Bolts as the caps are not NODULAR and in my opinion the ARP stud @ 85tq with oil puts too much stress on a non nodular cap

In Drag Racing the 4 bolt with "2482" caps can handle some power, on the street they cant handle as much IMO

IMO with ARP studs and "2482" caps ONLY, Drag race they can handle ~550hp IF BUILT RIGHT however know of a few @ 600hp holding up fine but LIGHT WEIGHT PARTS

On the street i would only put 475-500hp tops to it with "2482" caps and ARP studs

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichSchmidt View Post
On small blocks,you cant put factory 4 bolt caps on a 2 bolt block{except 400's} the 2 bolt main cap registers are narower then he 4 bolt.You can do aftermarket caps.
You can machine the register to be WIDER, that gives you more CLAMPING LOAD however I have had GREAT results from two bolt blocks with Milodon Splayed Caps using the 2 bolt register


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 10, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

I have a complete 1969 350 out of an implala 010 block and camel hump heads. I want build a clone dz302 I have a 1178 crank for the bottom. I think it has the smaller valves in these heads? Should I have these head made into 202 heads for the 302 or ?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 10, 12:13 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

I can't speak for small block metal used in 69, but on my L78 4 bolt I've read that the iron used had a high nickle content. Result? My rings never seated and it used a quart of oil every 500 miles. Yep, clockwork. Sure ran good though. Oh, after 75K miles all of the honing marks in the cylinders were as a new engine. Not good. I've read that they quit using that blend of iron soon after.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 10, 12:32 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by trmnatr View Post
In Drag Racing the 4 bolt with "2482" caps can handle some power, on the street they cant handle as much IMO

IMO with ARP studs and "2482" caps ONLY, Drag race they can handle ~550hp IF BUILT RIGHT however know of a few @ 600hp holding up fine but LIGHT WEIGHT PARTS

On the street i would only put 475-500hp tops to it with "2482" caps and ARP studs

Not sure how much HP my old 350 was making but it made enough to run a bunch of 10.1's at 131 in a 3,400 pound car. Ran the 2482 caps with ARP studs in this motor from '98 to '09. Must have put 20,000+ miles on it during that time.


'69 Camaro - 429 SBC Dart Iron Eagle 9.325" block, Crower crank, Crower 6" billet rods, Ross pistons (10:1), Total Seal rings, AFR 245 heads, T&D steel body shaft rockers, Cloyes Timing set, custom ground 4-7 swap solid roller 274/286 @ .050" with .704" lift, Dart single plane, Holley Dominator EFI on E85, Injector Dynamics ID2000 Injectors, Stef's #1705R oil pan, F2 Procharger, Lemons 2" primary 4" collector, ATI 9" blower converter
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 10, 09:33 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

Steve, those are the better GM caps

They are Nodular Iron

I know of a few 600hp engines I have done with that block filled with Hardblok to the bottom of the water pump holes

I would say you were at about 580-590hp, whats the combo?


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 29th, 10, 09:41 AM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by trmnatr View Post
Steve, those are the better GM caps

They are Nodular Iron

I know of a few 600hp engines I have done with that block filled with Hardblok to the bottom of the water pump holes

I would say you were at about 580-590hp, whats the combo?

There are two simple horsepower formulas that can estimate the on-the-pavement horsepower for a given car.

The ET method
This method uses the weight of the car and the time it took that car to travel 1320 feet (¼ mile).

The formula is: hp = weight / (ET / 5.825)3


The Trap-speed method
This method uses the weight of the car and the speed at which the car completed the quarter-mile run.

The formula is: hp = weight * (speed / 234)3

Based on these formula's it would take approximately 648HP at the tires to run 10.14 and 621HP to run 132.51MPH. Combo was a 350 with AFR 210 heads, roller cam and a 175 shot. I think these estimates are a bit generous but these are the formula's used by the various calculators that you find.

'69 Camaro - 429 SBC Dart Iron Eagle 9.325" block, Crower crank, Crower 6" billet rods, Ross pistons (10:1), Total Seal rings, AFR 245 heads, T&D steel body shaft rockers, Cloyes Timing set, custom ground 4-7 swap solid roller 274/286 @ .050" with .704" lift, Dart single plane, Holley Dominator EFI on E85, Injector Dynamics ID2000 Injectors, Stef's #1705R oil pan, F2 Procharger, Lemons 2" primary 4" collector, ATI 9" blower converter

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 29th, 10, 11:40 AM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

Steve, Try Wallace Racing Calculators, They seem to be the most accurate (I dont know what formula they use)


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 29th, 10, 12:09 PM
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Re: 1969 engine blocks

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Originally Posted by trmnatr View Post
Steve, Try Wallace Racing Calculators, They seem to be the most accurate (I dont know what formula they use)
I've used them also. They use the same formula. "Your HP is 648.34 computed from your vehicle weight of 3420 pounds and ET of 10.14 seconds."

They also have one for calculating based on 60 foot. Here are the results:

The HP is based on rear wheel HP, for flywheel HP multiply
the results by your drive train percentage loss and add it to the result.

Your HP computed from your 60 Foot Time of 1.39 at Weight of 3420 pounds is 635.00 HP.

'69 Camaro - 429 SBC Dart Iron Eagle 9.325" block, Crower crank, Crower 6" billet rods, Ross pistons (10:1), Total Seal rings, AFR 245 heads, T&D steel body shaft rockers, Cloyes Timing set, custom ground 4-7 swap solid roller 274/286 @ .050" with .704" lift, Dart single plane, Holley Dominator EFI on E85, Injector Dynamics ID2000 Injectors, Stef's #1705R oil pan, F2 Procharger, Lemons 2" primary 4" collector, ATI 9" blower converter
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