383 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Nick
 
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383

I have been looking at alot of rotating assembly kits for the 383 build that I am planning and they all have a flexplate included. Being that I have a manual transmission it got me curious, do I need a special flwheel with the 383? If anyone could help me out with this it would be great.

Thanks,

Nick
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 08:11 AM
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Re: 383

It depends on the kit you start with. If a flexplate is included it's probably externally balanced and you'll need a balanced flywheel to replace the flexplate. If you get an internal balanced crank then you wouldn't need the balanced flexplate or flywheel.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 383

Makes sense, Do you know what the pros and cons are when comparing 5.750 rods to 5.875?

Thanks for all your help.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 08:45 AM
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Re: 383

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Originally Posted by elk_aholic View Post
Makes sense, Do you know what the pros and cons are when comparing 5.750 rods to 5.875?

Thanks for all your help.
You mean comparing rods for a 350 vs. 383? Or Comparing crank strokes ?

Rods can be ordered in various lengths for either motor. Crank stroke lengths usually match up with the pistons.

Don
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 09:59 AM
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Re: 383

5.750 is stock small block chevy, except for the 400. the 5.875 being longer has less rod angularity, but it's such a small difference. the pin will be higher in the piston with the longer rod, leaving less room for the ring package. i used a 5.7 rod in my 383 because i wanted a good long life ring package. mine's a street motor and i want it to live for 100,000 miles !! and i used an internal balance crank kit so i can use any "0" balance flywheel/flexplate.

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 10:06 AM
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Re: 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by elk_aholic View Post
Makes sense, Do you know what the pros and cons are when comparing 5.750 rods to 5.875?

Thanks for all your help.

changing rod lengths usually requires a custom piston and balancing....the pistons used in street or even street/strip applications in a 383 w/5.7 inch rods are pretty common.

To run a 5.875 rod in the same application may take a custom piston, and if it does, that equals $$$.

You will probably have to clearance the block more as well, getting closer to water and that ain't good.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 11:03 AM
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Re: 383

There's a wide variety of internal and external balance 383 kits

Generally, long rod kits are easier to internal balance.
Why? The pistons are shorter and lighter and the bottom of the piston is further from the crank, leaving more room for the counterwieght.

I went with a 6" rod internal bal assy.
It works great, and balanced easily.
A little disconcerting at first because the piston pin goes right thru the oil ring groove.

The bonus is the pistons weigh ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY GRAMS less than stock cast 350 pistons!

That's 2.6 pounds of reciprocating weight, gone in a heartbeat.





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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 11:18 AM
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Re: 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
There's a wide variety of internal and external balance 383 kits

Generally, long rod kits are easier to internal balance.
Why? The pistons are shorter and lighter and the bottom of the piston is further from the crank, leaving more room for the counterwieght.

I went with a 6" rod internal bal assy.
It works great, and balanced easily.
A little disconcerting at first because the piston pin goes right thru the oil ring groove.

The bonus is the pistons weigh ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY GRAMS less than stock cast 350 pistons!

That's 2.6 pounds of reciprocating weight, gone in a heartbeat.
Same combo here, had motor apart twice , just for inspections. Saw no issues with oil ring support rail, Little more effort on installing spiral locks but when you get used to these or even use the new tool, they are easy. All speciality motors I have had in the last 40 years have had either spiral lock, E wire or dual E rings.

Don
TC # 349
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Nick
 
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Re: 383

I am very new to building engines and am a little confused, if I buy an internally balanced rotating assembly to I have to get it balanced once I have it all together?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 01:55 PM
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Re: 383

Nick,
Balancing is done before the engine is assembled.

Ken

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 01:59 PM
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Re: 383

Quote:
Originally Posted by elk_aholic View Post
I am very new to building engines and am a little confused, if I buy an internally balanced rotating assembly to I have to get it balanced once I have it all together?
Sometimes you get deals on complete kits, already balanced internally. Just have to check. If you piece a kit together, more likely to have to have it balanced but beware when you do this as you could pick the wrong pistons , etc , that would cause the balance job to require a denser weight material such as mallory 1000, it is expensive and the way the balancer adds it to the crank counter weights. Personally I like to see these materials set into the side of the throw and welded in.

Don
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 383

What do you guys think about this? Sounds like what I am looking for

Is this a good price?

Kit #13055 Eagle SBC 383 Stroker Rotating Assembly, Cast/Steel "INTERNAL" Balance Eagle 3.75 Stroke Crank, Eagle 5.7" Bushed SIR Rods, Keith Black FLAT Top Pistons #KB135 .020, .030, .040, .060 pistons, 11.6:1 w/58 cc heads, 10.9:1 comp w/64 cc heads, 9.6:1 with 76 cc heads, Speed Pro Moly Rings & Clevite Bearings. These kits do not include a Damper or Flexplate, these internal balance use a standard 350 damper & flexplate! Can be used in 1993 to 1997 LT1 Motors! Part # B13055EEagle SBC 383 Over ( 2 pc seal )Stroker Rotating Assembly (Balanced) (add .020, .030, .040 or .060 at the end to specify bore size. EXAMPLE: B13004E.030 for .030 over 4.030 bore size.$899.00Part #B13055LEagle SBC 383 Over ( 1 pc seal )Stroker Rotating Assembly (Balanced)(add .020, .030, .040 or .060 at the end to specify bore size. EXAMPLE: B13004L.030 for .030 over 4.030 bore size.$899.00
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 02:58 PM
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Re: 383

Looks like a good rotating assembly for a street car, but imo you would have to use heads with 76 CC chambers, anything smaller and you will have to run high octane gasoline.

You will also have to determine which rear main seal you need too.

Also make sure the pistons have been flycutt with valve reliefs.

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1968 Street/Strip Camaro 350 w/PG
1968 Caprice NHRA/IHRA Stock ELiminator O/SA 327-250 HP



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Last edited by Eleanor's Nemesis; Feb 3rd, 10 at 02:59 PM. Reason: add on flycutting part
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 03:51 PM
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Re: 383

I'd build it 11:1 with the 64cc heads.

And I'd upgrade to forged pistons, but that's just me.
Looks like a good buy at that price, and good stuff except for the k/b hyper pistons.





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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 10, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Nick
 
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Re: 383

I am going to call a couple machine shops to get some pricing. They will probably know what machining a 383 will need but are there any questions that I need to address with them about the engine?
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