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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Hey Guys. I'm adjusting my valves per the CRG instructions for my 302. It says to start by setting motor to TDC #1 cylinder;adjust #8 exhaust cylinder and #2 intake in that position. Then rotate 90 degrees and continue with specific valves/cylinders. If the lifter for #8 and #2 are exposed i.e. sticking above the lifter valley, doesn't that mean that lifter is riding the cam lobe and not the heal? I'm confused - any advice is greatly appreciated.


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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:21 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

You need to know if you are supposed to be on #1 compressoin stroke or #1 during overlap.The piston comes up twice for everytime the valve opens once.You may be on the wrong stroke.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:28 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

If the timing gear dimples are aligned (closest to one another), that is the compression stroke, right? Should I start on the other stroke (dimples away from each other)? Thanks for your help!


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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:36 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Theres lots of ways to adjust the valves,the way i have done it for years is to rotate the engine until you see the #1 intake valve close, then bring it to TDC,and adjust the #1 cly(both Valves), then rotate the engine 90 degrees and adjust #8 valves and then after each cly rotate 90 degrees and do them in the firing order,, if you dont want to mark-up your balancer you can pick up a mr gasket timing tape and use it to locate TDC,90 degrees,180 and 270,,

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:38 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Dimples together, #6 fireing, turn crank 360, NOW you can start.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Thanks Guy - I really appreciate the help.


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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 05:03 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

With timing mark to fire #1 cyl, you can adjust exh 1-3-4-8 and intake 1-2-5-7. Turn the crank to fire #6 cyl...adjust exh. 2-5-6-7 and intake 3-4-6-8. Hope that helps.

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Steve; thank you. That makes it a whole lot easier. So, I won't need to rotate the crank 90 degrees 7 times to accomplish my valve adjustments? We're supposed to get like 16" of snow here tomorrow, so it looks like I will get some time to hang-out in the garage.


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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 05:58 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Quote:
Originally Posted by reelknots View Post
With timing mark to fire #1 cyl, you can adjust exh 1-3-4-8 and intake 1-2-5-7. Turn the crank to fire #6 cyl...adjust exh. 2-5-6-7 and intake 3-4-6-8. Hope that helps.
This method won't work for the Z/28 cam, ask me how I know
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 06:03 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1968RallySport View Post
This method won't work for the Z/28 cam, ask me how I know
I'm curious as to why it wouldn't. The firing order is still 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 no matter what cam.

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

the cam lobes on the z/28 cam are VERY long; this method will result on certain lifters being on the ramps when done this way.


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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 10, 08:13 PM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

Quote:
Originally Posted by reelknots View Post
I'm curious as to why it wouldn't. The firing order is still 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 no matter what cam.
it won't work for many aftermarket cams either which is why most cam companies recommend the EO/IC method. Problem with your method on that cam is that although the valves will be closed they will not all be on the base of the lobe; some will be on the ramps and adjusting there will net you several loose rockers.

http://www.scorpionperformance.com/V...MadeSimple.pdf

Jody


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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 10, 04:31 AM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

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Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
recommend the EO/IC method. Jody
Works for me on both stock camshafts and aftermarket camshafts.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 10, 05:34 AM
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Re: Confused Adjusting Valve Lash

This is the SAFEST way to adjust SFT and SR Tappets: I imagine Labled the EO/IC method.

Pull Plugs, Remove Valve Covers, Use 1/2 Power Bar with appropriate Socket to fit Damper Bolt. [NOTE: NEVER Rotate Engine Backwards - that is turn the Damper Bolt Anti-Clockwise with Plugs installed or you will loose the Torque then you will have to Remove Starter and Jam the Flywheel to Re-Torque it]

Rotate engine so that #1 Cylinder is at TDC. Place thumb over plug hole to feel compression stroke and note that both Intake and Exhaust valves are CLOSED and #6 is at TDC Overlap with both Valve slightly OPEN.

Follow this procedure for SOLID LIFTERS:

INTAKE VALVE: When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake valve.

EXHAUST VALVE: After the intake valve has been adjusted, continue to rotate the engine, watching that same intake valve. The intake valve will go to full lift and then begin to close. When the intake is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder

Other words; you are ensuring you make the adjustment with the Lifter sitting on the Base circle or Heel of the Cam Lobe. Always NOTE the Hot and Cold Manufacture's Clearances. Generally you add .002" for and IRON Block with Iron Heads.

Just follow the Firing Order to the Next Cylinder.

Go through the procedure TWICE to ensure your accuracy - The last thing you want to do is WIPE that Cam on Start Up because of improper Lash clearance.

After Cam Break In repeat the procedure and follow up after every few hours of use until you are satisfied that the cam is Safely Installed.

VERY IMPORTANT with a FT CAM - ALL PUSH RODS MUST BE SPINNING when the engine is running - If one is NOT you can suspect LOBE Failure and the Engine must be Inspected. There is some evidence to support that some Mid 70 SBC's (Particularly 400 Blocks) may have defective Lifter Bore Alignments around 5, 6 and 7 Cylinders which may prevent the lifter from spinning on the Lobes

HYDRAULIC LIFTERS

I will use this procedure with Hydraulic Lifters as well and turn the Lock Nut 1/8 Turn after the Push Rod losses slack against the Peddle Valve ensuring I do not collapse it further. The 1/8 turn is deployed to note any Tappet Noise if a Lobe Wears during break in. After the Break In with the engine at Slow Idle all you have to do is loosen each Adjusting nut until you hear it CLACK and tighten until it Stops then turn 1/4 turn. Some use 1/2 or 3/4 but I would sooner hear something with the hope of detecting a Valve Train problem in early stage.

NOTE about Girdles: Loosen ONE Girdle Bolt at a time just enough for the Poly Lock closet to the Bolt to turn to make the adjustment. If you Loosen all Girdle Bolts and make your tappet adjustments they will be out to lunch when you re-tighten the Girdle as it will re-align the Rocker Studs.

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This was my 70 1/2 Z28

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Last edited by Z15CAM; Feb 10th, 10 at 06:38 AM.
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