Hey guys, I am looking to get a few more horses out my engine and I just found out I have dished pistons instead of flatops. Should I build a 383 stroker (#356-B13004e) or will better heads still give what i'm looking (around 400hp's) with my current combo (see sig). Right now i'm getting 240 hp at the rear wheels. Please let me know SUMMER IS COMING!!! thanks for any input.
240 rwhp is around 300 fwhp depending on whose formula you apply and I don't adhere to any formula on that deal as I think each powertrain is going to have unique power losses. So my question is are you looking for 400fwhp or 400 rwhp? You won't easily accomplish either with a dished piston 350 except with a 150 shot of juice.
So if I build the bottom end (383) how much more HP's & TQ will I get out of it, and what bolts should I replace with ARP's rod,mains etc...?
How much more you get is proportional to how much you spend. The sky is the limit.Heads is where the power is. Cubes makes it easier. Forged makes the rotator withstand it without becoming segmented. Fasteners need to preload at a higher clamping force than the load will impart. Compression ratio increases power by 3 to 5% per point but that is probably arguable too depending where your basis is. The block's main caps must be strong enough for the applied power and clamped so tight they can't walk. And walk they will.
imo you need more compression and better heads. The decision to go 383 vs 350 is approximately a $1500 to $2000 forged economic decision if all your old stuff were reuseable and you wanted to stay cast. Odds of that are nil. At that point the comparative costs begin to approach one another and it becomes a simple matter of deciding how much power you want.
If you want 400rwhp I would just leave your old engine in place and score a 4 bolt late model roller block and build a 383 or 385. call Mike Lewis and get a forged Scat Rotator, or get a Howards rotator. Go to profiler.com and get a set of profiler heads. Call Chris Straub 1st and get him to do you a hydroller cam and lifters and his recommended intake and find out what springs to have put on the profilers. Keep the 750 or better yet get an 830,,,,,,and about 5 grand later you would have 400rwhp.
If you want the most economical 400fwhp you can get, pull your engine and bore it to 4.030 or wherever it will clean up, grind your crank, get a set of new rods with good hardware in them already and get a set of hyper flat tops, a set of profilers and you will land right close to 10:1, and once again get Chris Straub to do you a cam and if you have some spare green do a hydroller retro but this doesn't make sense to me when late model blocks are plentiful and retro is not required you just roll baby. Some camshaft input from Mark Jones would be sweet because I think he has some Isky tricks up his sleeve. I would be sorely tempted to try a solid flat tappet somewhere slightly below 230° at .050 and as much lift as I could get and with a cast crank I would aim for bottom end so I would get be thinking straight pattern,,,,,,,so where we at in comp lingo somewhere around a 270s with 1.6 rockers. Get a Performer rpm intake and whack 1/2" out of the divider, imo if you re-use your cast crank there is no need entertaining notions of needing a single plane intake. Keep the 750 if you want max power, lose it for a 650 if you want behaviour. You will be close to 400, maybe a wee bit below. Profiler being the unknown, and the lack of a roller hurting it too imo. A couple hundred bucks spent on roller rockers is smart money imo as factory stamped rockers are a friggin joke. Any stud mounted rocker is a joke but stamped ones are the jokiest.