Anyone have any suggestions on removing a frozen spark plug form an aluminum head? It is not coming out, as you would think it should. A mechanic was afraid to precede saying he might damage the head. If it pulls the threads, can I use a heli-coil or something like that? This belongs to a family member on a limited budget so I am just trying to help them out. Thanks
Hopefully the 'mechanic' stopped the instant he felt resistance
The "100k plug life" cars have a very bad habit of doing this.
The plug gets fused to the alum. head over the years.
If it is going to come out, the following is my best procedure;
First you need to clean the base of the plug at the head very well to remove any dirt and $tuff.
Next you need to soak the base of the plug at the head with a VERY good quality penetrant oil - I use GM/AC Delco Part 10-6000 (dealer #88900415)Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor. It will stick well where sprayed and really "gets in there" to release the threads.
Once it's soaked overnight, respray right at base and try loosening the plug and turn out until it stops - respray and turn back in to seat ... repeat until you can back it out all the way.
If it still won't back all the way out it is probably pulling the threads as it moves and there will be no way to get it out and save the threads :sad:
If it does ruin the threads coming out then you will need to "heli-coil" the head to repair it.
It;s really not hard and SO common that all parts stores sell a little 'kit' to do this.
What car is it? Some of those modular Fords that use that extended reach plug are a bear....the factory plugs are not formed form a single piece and they'll sometimes break in half.
This is about the best stuff I've used and we have to keep it under lock and key where I work. It'll creep into a space down to one one-millionth of an inch. If you look down at the reviews, one is from someone who used it on spark plugs.
What car is it? Some of those modular Fords that use that extended reach plug are a bear....the factory plugs are not formed form a single piece and they'll sometimes break in half.
This is about the best stuff I've used and we have to keep it under lock and key where I work. It'll creep into a space down to one one-millionth of an inch. If you look down at the reviews, one is from someone who used it on spark plugs.
HI GENE . STUENER ,S got it . That KANO KROIL that,s the S t .I freed up a 400sbc with that stuff smell,s like LESTOIL to me . This would be my aproach been there many time,s . My uncle owned a auto machine shop / auto repair we did it all and fixed everything. 1 blow out the hole w/comp air . 2 spray it w k/kroil if youcant find that thes are also good ,MOPAR heat riser lube P/B BLASTER . CHESTERTON degummed castor oil penetrant. ZEP 45 w/vidax.3 let it sit over night but after it sat for 3/4 hrs.get a socket that wil go over the porcelain but not the metal body what you want to grab is the outer metal plug casing so you can shock the threads. 4 with a hammer and ext give the casing 3/4 quick raps wth the hammer . T hen spray again reapeat this once again. Then let it sit till your ready to remove it . 5 Get a good long ratchet for leverage and witha steady pull start losening . It,s eighter gonna come out or it ain,t . If itstart s to losen let the penetrant work a little more and go back and forth with the socket till it is removed . 6 Blow out the hole with brake klean and air chase th e threads,with marvel mystery oil clean again and install new plug w /neversieze on the threads . that should do it . IF IT BREAKS OFF write another post and i will answer I type one letter at a time an d my finger is worn out. hope this helps youv,e got a 50/50 chance good luck ALEX
On many of the Ford V10 heads they end up putting Timeserts in. It's like a heli-coil but instead of being a wire wrap it's a full metal tube with threads inside and out. They get installed with Red Loctite and then you are told to always use anti-sieze on the spark plugs.
I learned all of this from experience when my FIL's work van lost 8 out of 10 threads.
I have had really good luck with Zepreserve and PB Blaster. All my old engine/suspension/brake etc bolts all gave it up after being soaked in that stuff.
I'd recommend soaking stubborn bolts overnight. Maybe lightly hitting them with a rubber mallet to loosen the caked on grim/rust a bit then hitting them again with a penetrant. If still doesn't loosen up overnight rinse/repeat.
I was able to get completely frozen sub-frame bolts off after about 2 days using this method, letting them soak a couple hours then going back and a couple wacks and re-coating them over the course of a couple days.
Make sure to use some anti-seize when they go back in to avoid this in the future.
Thanks to all for the great responses. I will print this entire list of response out and develop a game plan. Glad to have those brand names etc, may keep me from buying four or five thing trying to find one that will work.
Thanks again,
gene68ss
Gene,
You did not mention what make or model or which engine There are several newer engines, mostly Fords, that have some serious issues with this and a very specific procedure needs to be followed to remove the plug without causing yourself a lot of ($$$) grief. One of them strips the threads in the head, the newer ones have a 2 piece spark plug that breaks off
If yours is not one of these, then what I always do is soak them with PB Blaster and work the plug back and forth a little at a time, That usually works after a while.
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