Carb Set up - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Carb Set up

Hi and thanks for reading this.
I am trying to set up my 68 Camaro it has a 327. I have installed a Edelbrock CB4 Manifold a Holley 1850 600cfm 4 barrel and a Comp Cam (Adv.Dur. 262 Int./270 Exh.V.Lift .462 Int./.469 Exh). I am currently dumping way to much fuel. Does anyone know what size jets and blow off valve I should install in my carb?
Thanks again.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 11, 11:40 PM
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Re: Carb Set up

Quote:
I am currently dumping way to much fuel.
1st how do u know that? logging O2 COs or HC.
And when, idle?, under load? cruise?

IF you have installed the carb reconmened by Holley, chances are the main jets are a couple points to big.....
I you REALLY serious about tuningt in the timing has to be correct or close to AND need to tune in with a O2 logger
There is a thread about 4 months ago where a member, newbie, describes step by step what he did, and got it right on the nail... a good thread.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 11, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Carb Set up

I am also new to this forum and to the world of classic cars. I installed the carb that was supplied with the car. From the info I gathered it is the correct carb for the car. I have friends who are big into drag racing and they helped me with tuning. Timing is correct. Exhaust is very sooty and white, can actually see fuel spilling from tail pipes. Carb may have other issues but before I rebuild I was trying to get a handle on the correct jets and blow out valve. The engine actually runs well at idle but dies when trying to accelerate. I probably have an accelerator pump issue also.
Thanks Again
Can you give link to the previous thread?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 11, 01:44 PM
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Re: Carb Set up

Quote:
Exhaust is very sooty and white, can actually see fuel spilling from tail pipes.
lean an engine out from just that symtom and you will most likely slowly kill the engine.
Headers on an engine can cause scavanging with a cam with a bit of duration and over lap in....the small concentartion of fuel above the closed valve gets sucked into the cylinder, and since both valves are still open raw fuel in the exhaust.
Learn to read spark plugs with a magnifing glass will tell u if that is the case.

Quote:
The engine actually runs well at idle but dies when trying to accelerate.
hold the throttle Wide open...then lever the accel pump up....ther should be 15 to 18/1000" gap.
Also check float levels....shake the car and should be able to just slop a bit of fuel out of the side plugs
Are the mixture and idle speed screws around the middle of spec?
PV depends on the vac of the engine..what is the engine Vac
But before finding the vac u need to have the idle and cent advance correct or at least in the ball park.

Quote:
Can you give link to the previous thread?
OK dont take this the wrong way...and rem Im a grumpy old ******* there is a seach function above to find everything u want to know....dont use the google one.
Read learn and ask questions.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 11, 01:53 PM
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Re: Carb Set up

Hi Redd,

The info you need is at Holley's website - page 13 has jet sizes and power valve info.
Your specs are in this document.

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...7948-5rev1.pdf

Last edited by Nashville Beth; Mar 28th, 11 at 02:11 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 11, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Carb Set up

Steptoe.
First of all I am also a grumpy old #$% so thanks for all the help. My Main problem is I know just enough to be dangerous. Fooled around with cars when I was younger but am now relearning everything. I will take your advice and read up on reading my spark plugs.
I will also perform your other recommended procedures. I am going out of town for a couple of weeks and will not get to any of this until I get back. I will keep you posted on my progress.
Thanks Again


Nashville Beth Thanks for the link
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 11, 02:53 PM
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Re: Carb Set up

Quote:
My Main problem is I know just enough to be dangerous. Fooled around with cars when I was younger but am now relearning everything.
'Middle age crisis' or more accuratly between around 17 and 35 we go out try and enjot doing stuff, cars, surfing, hunting, rock climbing, fishing,needle piont, stamp collecting, what ever...hit 40s and then go back and do the stuff we practiced and enjoyed the most...common sence really?....we now have the money, commonsence to do it right and well.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 11, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Carb Set up

I finally got it resolved. Turns out the white vapors and drips was actually antifreeze. It seemed to be mixing with the excess fuel and looked like gasoline. I replaced the intake gasket (generously coated with rtv) and that stopped the vapors. The carb was also very messed up, which was causing the black soot as it was cleaning my exhaust system. After a total overhaul (rebuild kit, new power valve, jets & diaphragm) all it needed was some adjusting. Seems to run fine now. Exhaust is very clear. One issue remains; the engine still idles very high in park and neutral (1500rpms) but runs at 750rpms when in gear. I do not seem to have any vacuum leaks. Any suggestions?
Thanks Again
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 11, 03:45 PM
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Re: Carb Set up

Secondary butterfly setting to high...
Again how to adjust in old posts.....
but here goes again lol
Get a rivet...flaten 1 end with a hammer and file flat into a screwdriver end
Put a 90 deg bend in the shaft.
On the opposite side to the throttle, under the bottom end that hand over the valley cover is access to a tiny screw...like an upside down idle screw on the primaries.
slowly close the seconday butterflyies adjusting mixture screws and primary idle screws till they are in the middle of the factory setting (1 1/2 turns)
Do not have the butterflies fully closed on the bores...this causes sticking and even over time bent butterfly shafts....have at lease a smiggen off bottoming out.

Other basic settings ..just in case....
throttle held wide open, push the accel pump fully up, and with the other ffree 3rd hand, gap about 18 /1000.. not critcal 15 to 20 is fine.
Auto kick down cable...
WoT then pull the kick down cable hard...3/16 play in the slot at the end of the cable.
Watch wnen adjusting the cable outter you dont pull it out of the plastic sleeve on the trans...cause it sits high on the end of the plastic sleeve and the adjustment is incorrect when u drop it back.....ALWAYS check that.

float level
pull the bung, engine not running, shake the car side to side, the fuel should just slop out....if to high , runs out, adjust the lock /adjusting nut top of the bowl so level is low, fire up, take out bungs and adjust level so slops out

If things ar not right when all of those are done...then its crap in the float levfel valve, or power valve is incorrect or faulty.
And dont believe the BS about backfire causes power valve to blow...holley addresses that issue couple decades ago.

I recommend people run a search..
1/ its there problem Im no nurse maid
2/ Searching info they come across other stuff, maybe not relivent, but one day something happens...and they think..."hang on I have read something about that before"

I read a manual, maybe 30 or 40 yrs ago...something comes up...I can rem what manual, where on the page, say middle left side and roughly how far into the book say just afte 1/4 of the way thru, what im looking for.

Searching or researching is far more than looking for a narrow issue..its education.. and if genuinily interested in the subject, broading ones overall knowledge is interesting.
Im sure you found this out.

Welcome to middle life crisi m8.

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