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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old May 6th, 11, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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RICK
 
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roller cam

On a gen1 sbc 400 being converted to a retro roller cam. How important is a thrust washer between the block and the back of the timing gear. Correct me if I'm wrong but on a Gen1 sbc 400 with a flat tappet cam in these motors, didn't the timing gear allways get pulled against the block. I'm pretty sure they did. So that being the case do you really need anything between the timing gear and the block. I'm pretty certain that the roller cam will not put that kind of force between the timing gear and the block. I have never seen the block get destroyed from the timing gear pressing against it.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old May 6th, 11, 01:23 PM
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Re: roller cam

The Front Journal of a Retro Roller SR or HR Cam is designed for the Anti-Kick Back Wear Plate - Stack 2 or 3 Lube Impregnated Washers to Track the Roller Lifter in the middle of the Cam Lobe. Then Set Up the Forward Thrust Device so that the Cam End Play is approx .004". The main purpose of the Wear plate is to center the Lifter Roller on the Cam Lobe and prevent the Cam from kicking back and destroying the Distributor Gear.

Unless the Lifter Bores are Machined aligned, all Chevy FT Blocks will walk a Retro-Fit Roller Cam Forward.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old May 6th, 11, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: roller cam

How much spacing can you have between the block and timing gear before you need to worry about the cam and crank gear lining up? How thick are the washers your talking about?
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old May 6th, 11, 03:17 PM
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Re: roller cam

Roller cam in a SBC....you need a cam button like this

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old May 6th, 11, 04:01 PM
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Re: roller cam

Quote:
How much spacing can you have between the block and timing gear before you need to worry about the cam and crank gear lining up? How thick are the washers your talking about?
Generally the Wear plate is around .140" Thick - Say 2 x's .070" Wear Plates (Whatever it takes to position the Lifter Roller in the Center of the Cam Lobe). The Snout of a Roller Cam will position the Cam Gear accordingly.

If you're using a Timing Chain the Crank Gear "FLOATS" on the Crank Snout and can be shimmed to Align with the Cam Gear. You can simply move it and check it with a Straight Edge - It's no big as the Retro-Roller-Cam Specs takes this in to account with most OEM Spec'd Cam Gears. The Damper Bottoms out and wedge against the Crank Gear.

It's common practice to drill the Wear Plates with numerous 1/64" (1mm) Holes and drill a 1mm hole behind the Wear Plates through the Front Cam journal & into the Blocks front Cam Bearing Oil Gallery to lube the Wear Plates. You can also drill a 1mm hole into the PSGR Front Tappet Gallery Plug to lube the Timing Chain and Thrust Device.

If you use an OEM Timing Cover be-sure to support the Timing Casing & Cam Button with a Block of Steel or Aluminum between the Timing cover & Back of the Water Pump.

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Last edited by Z15CAM; May 6th, 11 at 09:57 PM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old May 9th, 11, 02:05 AM
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Re: roller cam

another trick on stock covers is to remove a screw on back cover of water pump and install longer one with 2 nuts-once water pump is on-adjust screw to zero clearance and lock down(if you set water pump on motor before cover is installed-you will see that the water pump aligns up with cam button--i also use nylon cam buttons cause i have seen the roller buttons destroy a motor
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old May 9th, 11, 02:59 AM
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Re: roller cam

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...lay/index.html

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old May 9th, 11, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: roller cam

So the washer between the cam gear and the block is not needed if my lifter roller is positioned well on the cam lobe, is this correct? Thanks for everyones input, this is my first roller cam and I want to do it right.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old May 10th, 11, 01:14 AM
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Re: roller cam

no its a wear plate--i have run alots of sbc without using one and havent had any problems but i would look into using one--i wouldnt use roller bearing style on either one tho
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old May 11th, 11, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Re: roller cam

Tryed to put my roller cam(compXE276HR) 12-423-8 into my 400 sbc today. Put a comp 3100 timing chain set on it. Aligned dots on gears. Put a wrench on the crank and tryed to turn it over. The rods for 5&6 cylinder hit the cam. I wouldn't expect that to happen because it is not a real high lift cam. Also it is the cam for the 400 sbc according to comp. The crank is stock so I wouldn't think I should have clearance issues. Anyone with any ideas as to why I have this issue.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old May 11th, 11, 10:55 PM
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Re: roller cam

it shouldnt hit unless you have aluminum rods--i have run a cam simijar with no problems--what rods do u have--my next guess would be pull those rods -put a degree wheel on it to chek cam-does that timing set have different location to set straight up 3deg adv or 3 retard--if so might be on wrong
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old May 11th, 11, 11:05 PM
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Re: roller cam

I don't think it's that uncommon even w/steel rods. It is certainly something to be checked on a 383, and a 400 should be no different. My 383 needed to have a couple of rods adjusted for cam clearance (5.7 steel I-beam). It gets really fun when you do a cam change. I had my second cam ground on a reduced base circle to minimize the possibility.

The stock 400 rods didn't have much meat at the big end.


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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old May 12th, 11, 01:17 AM
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Re: roller cam

My buddies LT-1 383 with a comp306HP didn't hit the lobes or the block but it was EXTREMELY close, 5.7 pink rods, 3.75" scat crank.
This is why the 400's got 5.65 rods.
Since it's not very high lift, the lobes must be just in the right spot to hit some of the rods.
Need a small base circle.
Most stroker builds need some clearancing on the pan rails, rods etc... sometimes you luck out and don't need anything, even an aftermarket pan.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old May 12th, 11, 03:26 AM
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Re: roller cam

Flat tappet cams are supposed to "walk" and rollers are not. Roller cams get about .003= .005 linear play (I think).
Thats what the cam button is for (to set) and if the block was machined, you shouldn't need a ware plate/shim behind the cam gear for gear/block interference.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old May 12th, 11, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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RICK
 
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Re: roller cam

I have a stock crank and 5.7 pink rods. Doesn't seem like that should have been a problem. Do you think the cam gear set up could be wrong. When I align the dots on the timing gears the number 1 cylinder looks as if it is starting its intake stroke. I thought it should be on its firing stroke when the dots are aligned. The number 6 cylinder looks as if it is on its firing stroke when the dots are aligned. Do you think the cam could be 180 degrees out causing lobes to be in wrong position at that time for the rods to touch. The 3100 timing gear has the 0, R and A positions. I do have the 0 position lined up on the crank keyway and the 0 dot on the crank gear aligned with the dot on the cam gear. Opinions on what my next step should be would be appreciated. Should I be looking at another cam, timing or what. Thanks in advance for help on this. This sucks because already dumped alot of money in this motor.
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