What did I do wrong? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 14, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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Robert
 
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What did I do wrong?

Many moons back, I tore down the front of my engine due to the harm balancer needing replaced and having a leak on the H.B. seal. Well, I replaced the timing cover, balancer seal and the oil pan gasket with a 1 piece gasket and it leaked terribly in the front. It felt like there was a gap between the gasket and the timing chain cover and the oil pan. Since this is a daily driver, I red necked it and put some RTV in the space to stop the oil leak. It worked good enough that it held until I could get around to cleaning the stock timing cover and putting that back on. I replace the balancer seal on it and and after the reinstall, I have the same issue. After getting ahold of Summit's tech line they informed me that the oil pan gasket is the correct one. So, more rtv and I moded my PCV valve to put constant vacuum on the crank case; thus no more leaks. That works and she drives fine, but I still don't like it. Any Ideas? It's a 350. Thank you all.
- Rob

1968, 5 speed, Vintage Air Gen IV, American Auto Wire Update Series, Champion 4 Core Rad, BMR front w/ Koni's, BP Roller 383, Posi 8.2", Solid Frame Bushings
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 14, 07:07 AM
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Don
 
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Re: What did I do wrong?

There are two versions of oil pan seals in the front, one piece or not. All has to do with the thickness of the front pan lip where it fits up into the timing cover. Most people call them thick or thin fronts.
Early had the thin and the late had the thick. Most applications list a one piece gasket before 1985 and one after 1985. Again , depends on what oil pan you are using, early style or late.

Don
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 14, 07:40 AM
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Michael
 
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Re: What did I do wrong?

Sounds like you have a thick pan with a thin gasket. Should leak pretty good. Don't park facing downward on an incline.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 14, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Robert
 
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Re: What did I do wrong?

Ah, right. Well, crap. Thanks Gents.
- Rob

1968, 5 speed, Vintage Air Gen IV, American Auto Wire Update Series, Champion 4 Core Rad, BMR front w/ Koni's, BP Roller 383, Posi 8.2", Solid Frame Bushings
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 14, 11:13 AM
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Re: What did I do wrong?

Well Bob now that you know what went wrong here's my advice.On a sbc the best oilpan gasket that I like for the early stuff is the factory G / M gasket it comes with both sets of frnt and rear pan seals and the side rail gasket is cork neoprene metal cork and neoprene. installed right with a dot of silicone or rtv at the four corners and an ever so slight smear on both sides of the pan rails it will work pretty well and not leak of course all surfaces must be clean and dry. Alex
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 14, 10:58 AM
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Re: What did I do wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtchaney View Post
Ah, right. Well, crap. Thanks Gents.
- Rob
Here's the story on the pan front seal. All production pans from '56-'74 used the "thin" front seal. Chevy changed the pan front seal radius in '75, and production pans from then on used the "thick" front seal. To further confuse it, the front seal radius was changed to require the thick front seal on ALL SERVICE oil pans manufactured after 1975, regardless of their intended application, and a thick front seal was included with those '75-up Service oil pans. Fel-Pro (and others) make one-piece pan gaskets in both the "thin" and "thick" front seal configurations.

To find out exactly which gasket/front seal thickness you need, flip the pan upside-down on the bench (no gasket, or use a straightedge) and measure the front seal radius - if it's 2-1/4", it takes the "thin" front seal; if it's 2-3/8", it takes the "thick" front seal. Using a thin-seal gasket on a thick-seal pan will result in a really amazing oil leak.

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