I recently purchased a '68 with a 10 over 396 with a 292 straight cam. I'm having some valve train noise that sounds like it's coming from the rear valves. First I tried having the valves adjusted and the ticking didn't stop. Now I'm being told I'll prob need a new cam. I'm relatively new to the muscle car world and could use some advice.
My questions are.
Does this sound accurate?
What would be a good can to go with and how much should it cost to install?

Thanks, Rob

I'm not sure that I'd go with a 'probably' diagnosis. Find someone who can give you an accurate reading of what is going on. Replacing a cam, then lifters, valves and who knows what else can get expensive, and your issue could still remain. Maybe post a video or audio clip and some of the fine folks here can point you in the right direction. A mechanics stethoscope also goes a long way to pinpointing where exactly the sound is coming from.

Good luck!

http://youtu.be/_DuY9N7zUCg

Rob, I had some valve train noise coming from the rear cylinders on my small block.......was the header gaskets. Sometimes you can't really tighten the last bolts cause of the firewall.
Ended up buying some good gaskets http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...berl/overview/ and some smaller headed header bolts from ARP.
Problem solved for me.
I don't know if thats your problem but if you have good engine performance this might be a cheaper alternative to try first before the cam change.

I had a little noise from a cam I put in a 350. I was told the modern cams with fast opening and closing profiles can do that (it was a Comp Cams with .500+ lift). Your clip did not sound excessive so that may be it. I would listen with an automotive stethoscope and see if you notice a difference from valve to valve. I also had a new set of valve covers that the lifter hit the oil baffle under the holes for the PCV and vent that sounded a lot like a lifter tapping. Bent the baffle a little to fix that one.

First thing u do is invest in a mechanics stethoscope... 20 bucks
poke around till u find what is making the noise...
Could be as simple as a lifter touching the cover, and only just enough not to even mark it, to a cracked or collapsed piston to the suggestion above
ALL will keep making the noise after readjusting lifters....funny that..

You need to see if the cam is going flat. If it is and depending on how many lobes are flat I would suggest taking the pan off the engine and checking some bearings. That cast iron may have gone through the engine.

If it is a flat cam I would HIGHLY suggest going hyd roller. More up front $ but in the long run more power and more reliability.

Thanks for all the help.

Most raer valve ticking is an exhaust leak.
Either a header gasket, collector gasket or a donut if it has a stock exhaust.

A flat cam won't lift the rocker nearly as much as the other rockers while running.

If it is your cam, then you have a worn lobe and you would probably find a "concave" on the bottom of one of your lifters. I drive a 95 S10 with the same problem you are describing. It won't hurt anything if what I mentioned is the above case and you choose not to do anything about it (my opinion and others can disagree). The ticking might just make you frustrated to listen to.

Take the valve covers off and spin the engine and note any rocker arms that are no fully going down. Do you have a solid cam or hydraulic. If you have hydraulic then add a bottle of GM EOS to see if the lifters free up.

Here's my #3 intake that has a worn solid lifter cam lobe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bPi...sufT8Q&index=5