Breaking in New Rings? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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When assembling a new motor, I've always used liberal amounts of engine oil on the cylinders and new rings. Recently, I read that this can actually slow down ring seating and the alternate recommendation was to use only a light coating of WD-40. The article said this would cause the rings to seat almost instantly (no doubt!) and that oil splash would lubricate everything just fine as soon as the motor is running.

Any thoughts on this? Anyone use the WD-40 method?

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Scott
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 05:43 PM
 
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You mean the old can of Ajax or Comet isn't the way to do it?? Just Kidding!! pdq67



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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 06:20 PM
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Scott,

Again I use Marvel Mystery oil on the pistons for assembly and I use it on all machined surfaces to prevent rust between cleaning and assembly. WD-40 (water displaceing film #40) is just a thin (very thin) film and cannot lubricate for very long and take any pressure applied against it (That's why I only use it on squeaky household door hinges). You should use a lite weight engine oil or trans fluid at a minimum for all parts in an engine. I use Moly-B grease for my assembly lube in bearings,cam,lifters,etc. and change my filter and oil after 20 minutes. 16 Motors and no problems with this practice.

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TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 00, 07:17 PM
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I lube the rings with motor oil when installing the pistons I don't add any more oil than that.

I take care to spin the oil pump with a drill for a while to pre lube the engine so when it starts up there is oil pressure right away.

I also have my timing light connected and the carb screw turned in a couple of turns to keep the engine running at 2000 rpm's for at least a half hour.

I don't drive it until I have an hour on the engine, all above 1500 rpm's.

I've been told and read Molly rings seat within a couple of minutes.
The cam is the big worry and reason to keep the engine reved up a bit to lubricate it.

It's interesting the target master and other engines from chevy I have opened up are pretty dry inside. It looks like they use a small amount of oil to install parts and prevent corrosion but not much oil is there.
David


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 08:10 AM
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Scott,
There are as many different methods as there are engine builders. Personally, I wipe down the cylinders with ATF just before assembly, then put just a light coating of oil on the pistons and rings, just enough to keep them from scuffing.
We went to a piston ring seminar that was put on by Hastings about a year ago and thier engineer basically said that the most important thing was the cylinder wall finish. He said that if the cylinders are finished properly, you could coat the pistons and rings with STP and they would still seat in properly and quickly. The other important thing was to get a load on the motor as soon as possible after starting it. This is why I cringe when we do a motor for someone and find out that they are putting it in a car that is not really driveable due to an ongoing restoration etc. When we install a motor in a car at the shop, we get everything set as close as possible before starting the car, fill all the fluids etc. Then I start it and let it run long enough for the thermostat to open, set the timing, check for leaks and out the door I go for a 20 mile test drive. I personally think the worse situation is starting the car and running the motor without driving it. Without a load to exert some pressure on the rings, they will take longer to seat in properly.
Automotive Rebuilder magazine had an excellent article on pistons and rings in the November 2000 issue...it should be available to view on thier web site www.automotiverebuilder.com
It is good reading on the subject.
Hope this helps,

------------------
Bill Koustenis
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 09:28 AM
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Thanks Bill,
Looks like a nice magazine.
I also found the Hastings site with a lot of info. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm

I also found a lot of info pertaining to aircraft engines, but they have different composition cylinder liners with crome and even ceramic in their cylinder walls.

However the aircraft break in recomendation is similar to the Hastings recomendation.
http://www.8ballfc.org/dontbaby1.htm http://www.mattituck.com/new/articles/engbrkin.htm
David

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[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 01-01-2001).]
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 09:51 AM
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Dave,
YOu must have changed your post while I was looking at the Automotive Rebuilder web site to make sure it was working. If you "search back issues" use "pistons" for the search word and search "automotive rebuilder" the article I was referring to is the first one listed.
Bill

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 01, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses - I was a little leery of the WD-40 approach.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 01, 08:51 AM
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I have always broken mine in with a little bit of two stroke oil added to the fuel. I figure, every little bit has to help.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 01, 11:59 AM
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Several engine builders here in Dallas I have talked to recommend a light coating of ATF.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 01, 12:31 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Bill,
Yes, I changed it after I got it to work.
At first I tried it several times and it would not do anything.

So I posted it wasn't working, then when I returned and tried it again, it worked!
Good info,
David

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