Narrowing 9" rear end - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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John
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Latonia Kentucky
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I'm in the process of narrowing a 9" rear end from a '77 truck to fit a '68 Camaro. I have the center section out, and the spring and shock perches removed. On either side of the center housing, there are "caps" about 3/8" high and the diameter of a nickel. They don't appear to be threaded on. Does anybody know what these are for and how they are attched?
As far as cutting the axle tubes from the center housing, what is the best method for this? Would it be okay to cut the center housing just inside the welds?
Are there any other tricks to know about before proceding?
Thanks for any help..... I still can't believe that I'm putting a f**d part on a Camaro!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 02, 04:03 AM
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You can't just wack off the ends and reweld them. It requires special equipment to get it straight. I would definately suggest taking it to a shop that specializes in narrowing rear ends.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 02, 05:47 PM
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Freddie
 
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I don't know what the caps are. I haven't seen anything like that before. When you narrow a housing you don't cut the tubes out of the center, you cut the ends off, remove the amount you need from the tubes, and weld the ends back on. You have to have a fixture to go through the housing that aligns everything so it is all straight when welded. I have narrowed many 9" housings and I haven't seen one yet that was straight, so don't think you can just cut it and stick it back together and weld it. You will chew all of the splines off of the axles.

------------------
'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
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[This message has been edited by big gear head (edited 04-09-2002).]
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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John
 
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BGH - Are you saying to cut the bearing housing/backing plate flange off, and then cut the tubes to length? If so, the tubes on this rear are necked down about 1/4", 2-3 inches from the flange. If I were to do it that way, the flanges would end up into the larger diameter section of the axle tube. Is there a particular reason that cutting the tubes from the center housing is not advisable?
I'm pretty sure that I can rig up some sort of a jig to get everything square and straight. It isn't costing me anything to do this, so if I screw it up, it's no big deal.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 03:46 PM
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You need some help from some one with a lathe. You need to turn ( machine ) two large bushing to replace the carrier beaings in a spare pumpkin ( drop out).

They need to be machined to the outer bearing diameter and bored for a 1.25" (or larger) hole in the center. These will be mocked up and torqued down in the spare carrier. Bolt this completed drop out to the housing with a gasket.

You then need to machine two more that will be replacing the axle bearings with a matching hole bored to 1.25" ( or what ever you bored the ones in the carrier to.)

The most important part is to get all your measure meants correct than use an industrial pipe cutter to remove the bearing ends. Then cut off the amount of the housing needed to reach your final measurement.

Next take a long steel rod that matches you bore diameters (1.25) and run it threw the mocked up housing . Next slide your end ( with the machined bushings installed ) over the ends of the rod. This will hold everything together and aligned while you weld the ends back on.



[This message has been edited by roger69 (edited 04-10-2002).]
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 06:05 PM
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Freddie
 
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Yes, cutting the ends off and then removing the amount needed is the correct way to do it. I have used the housing you have a few times, but I don't like it. The truck housing with the smaller, more rounded center is a better one to use. The tubes are not tapered on it. You will need a fixture like the one Roger described to get it straight.

------------------
'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 06:12 PM
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You're scaring me!!!

If you plan to drive this car on the street, please inform everyone so no-one will be out there when you are!!

You need to have this done professionally. "Big gear head" knows what he's talking about. This is not something you can do in your driveway or garage without the proper equipment. To try it because "It isn't costing me anything to do this, so if I screw it up, it's no big deal." is totally irresponsible to those others who might be on the street when you decide to "try it". When something breaks because it wasn't done correctly and innocent people are involved, you may have a different attitude than "It's no big deal." Listen to what people tell you. It's not worth it. Do it once, and do it right.

------------------
70 & 1/2 RS
SB406 & M20 4spd
9" rear

70 Malibu 350/TH400

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[This message has been edited by Scooter (edited 04-10-2002).]
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 02, 01:29 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Scooter:
You're scaring me!!!

If you plan to drive this car on the street, please inform everyone so no-one will be out there when you are!!


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Come on Scooter ! Its not that hard. Some one with a lathe can make the bushings I described in under a hour.
Im not a drive line tech, Im a half a$$ machinest and I have done a couple this way. Once you have a way to keep it aligned its not hard at all. If it was some black art the shops would be charging way more than $65.00 to do it.

That would be the only arguement I have for having a shop do it. Its so cheap !
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