Well, progress has been much slower than expected with the issues with the daily driver. Finally got to do the final assembly and detail work on the engine yesterday, and have a few questions.
1) I had this faint glimmer of hope that a set of stock or near stock length pushrods would work on this engine (see details below). But, when I whipped out my Manley pushrod length checker, and dropped in a new stock replacement pushrod, there is roughly 1/2" clearance between the checker and the pushrod. I expected a little difference, but does this sound anywhere close to normal?
2) These heads did come with 7/16" screw in studs...I have 3 sets of roller tip rockers (
) for 3/8" studs, so I snagged the ARP 3/8" studs from another set of heads I have for another project and will use them. Is there any benefit from the bigger studs? I will probably put the bigger studs in later when I get some full roller rockers.
3) What spark plugs should I use with the pro-topline heads? Does anybody make a shorter than standard plug for header clearance (like the accel plugs)?
4) What kind of spring compressor can I use to add the inner springs to the heads after the cam is broken in? The spring compressor I use "on the motor" doesn't work with dual springs. I used a C-style compressor to remove the springs before installing the heads, just need something to put them back on without removing the heads again.
And some assembly notes...
1) That crap that comp cams calls cam lube is a joke. It looks like spaghetti sause, only runnier. Cranes cam lube is much, much better...much like the stuff comp USED to provide with their cams
2) Pro-topline users beware. I had to do some cleanup port work on every single port on these heads, to clean up the casting flash. Every port had what looked like veins in your arm...most about 1/8" wide and several inches long. Some was over 1/4" tall...think of the damage that could cause if a piece broke loose
3) The port to seat area on some of the ports left something to be desired. Its like some of the ports was cast about 1/16" off to one side. Nothing a die grinder can't fix though.
4) These heads came with some awesome, mega beefy hardware. Huge, thick valve locks, beefy screw in studs, beautiful swirl polished, undercut head stainless valves, and what appears to be bronze valve guides. Other than the casting flash issue, the ports on these things look like they will flow some serious air [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] Plus, the heads are already machined for 1.55" springs and have a tall installed height. With the 2 factory shims under the springs, the installed heights are 1.80-1.82". Remove the shims and they are close to 1.90". Gets me thinking about solid roller cams...
5) The build quality and fit of the Moroso oil pan I got is excellent [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
6) Can't say the same thing for the Weiand 7530 intake though. Not bad, just rough and unfinished in a few places.
7) This 2 piece timing cover, although it looks great, looks like a leak waiting to happen. Oh, and when your tired, its real easy to install them backwards [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]
8) If you buy a rod bolt stretch guage, do NOT get one from Proform
I also found that whoever shot the undercoating stuff under the hood of this nova must have been stoned out of his head when this car was built. I spent 1 whole day cleaning up under the hood...I bet I scraped off 20 pounds of that stuff. Looks like it was meant for the seam in the firewall...the just managed to hit everything else. Got the last coat of paint on the inner fenders and firewall yesterday, got the rest of the engine buttoned up (except for the intake...waiting until I get the pushrod situation taken care of), and now I am going to go install this shifter before I stab the whole mess in there. It's getting close [img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img]