Power source for electric choke carb. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hello all,

I am hoping to get a start this weekend on my Weiand Stealth Alum. DP intake, Carter 625cfm 4bbl carb. & header upgrades...BTW, the carb. is a rebuilt unit that has no instructions on choke or vacuum line hookups...

My car currently has a cast iron 2bbl. intake & carb. with a heat riser style choke. So do I just need to run a wire from the fuse panel to the electric choke of the Carter carb.? Or am I completely off base? Forgive me if this is an "idjit" type question....

Thanks,
-Mark
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 02:43 PM
 
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Not an idjit question at all,you just didnt know thats why you belong to this site.All you need to do is find a switched 12 volt wire and connect the red wire of the choke to that,and ground the other choke terminal black wire.Make SURE the red wire is SWITCHED 12 volts not constant 12 volts.By switched I mean only hot when the key is in the on position.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 02:47 PM
 
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Do you know where the vac lines hook up?If not reply back I'll try to help.There should be two let me know.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 03:10 PM
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Bill Miller
 
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I need to wire up an electric choke on my car soon also. As was stated you need a 12 volt source that only has 12 volts with the key in the on position. Make sure it is not hot in Acc. position and make sure you don't leave the key in the on position with the engine off for a long period of time. This could cause the choke to overheat. The factory always ran the 12 volt wire though an oil pressure switch so that the choke would only have power with the engine running, but my car has the factory oil pressure gauge and I am not sure how I could run both the pressure switch and the oil pressure line.

1969 RS convertible 327 1981 Z28 original unrestored
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 03:26 PM
 
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I really dont see a problem with hooking to a switched power in the on position,there is no reason to leave the key in the on position.Think about it if there was a problem with having 12 volts to a choke for an extended time you would'nt be able to drive the car too far without shutting it off and letting the choke cool off,and there would be a timmer on the 12 volt wire to cut off power after a while.I do agree about the acc position.But I'm not sure if you can get a switched power and it not be hot in acc position also.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 03:44 PM
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Bill Miller
 
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I never thought much about it either untill I read the directions for the electric choke kit for my holley carb.Its says " Warning! With the engine running, the external vacuum source draws fresh air into the choke housing, which prevents the heating element in the choke housing from overheating. In most cases, an ignition activated voltage source is also activated when the key is in the "on" or "ACC" position. Choke cap damage can result due to overheating if the key is left in the "on" or "acc" position for a prolonged period of time without the engine running." I am not sure if other electric chokes are this way or just on the Holleys.

1969 RS convertible 327 1981 Z28 original unrestored
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys,

My Carb. is a Carter 9635A (Same as an Edelbrock 600cfm) I'll check for an an available SWITCHED 12V power source in the fuse panel. I know my Pertronix ignition coil requires a 12V switched source.

As for vacuum ports, I know that the small port on the left side of the carb. base is vac. for the distributor. Otherwise, I have some vac. line caps to block off any unused ports. I may need some more help with that when I get ready to hook the vac. lines up...

-Mark
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 05, 06:23 PM
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Jim
 
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I've been thinking about this one, too, as I clean up and retape all my wiring. My electric choke is/was hooked up to the igniton spare terminal on the fuseblock.

My ignition is accell electronic, and the resister wire has been replaced by a straight run of 12 guage.

Can anyone think of a reason not to wire that choke direct to the hot side of the coil?





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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 05, 12:22 AM
 
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Any switched power should do fine.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 05, 02:53 AM
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I ran 12v from the windshield wiper motor. It is switched power and has worked fine for 3 years now.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 05, 06:30 AM
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Al
 
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Granny,

If your 210hp 327 is anything like my 200hp 307 was, you might have what I believe was called an anti-diesel solenoid at the front of the Rochester 2-Jet. The wire that goes to that solenoid is "key on" 12V and would be a good choice since you won't be needing the solenoid anymore. I think it even has the correct spade connector on the end of it. I'm not sure if they all had it however.


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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 05, 03:34 PM
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I also used the 12 V from the wiper with no problem for the past 5 yrs. Since the HEI likes a full 12 V. I stayed away from that lead.

TTFN
Mat
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 05, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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BPOS,

I do indeed have a solenoid on the right side of my Rochester 2bbl. I can probably just use that for a switched 12V power source. (kinda forgot about that... ) [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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