Glazed cylinder walls - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Ron
 
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Glazed cylinder walls

I just found out what was causing my oil smoke/consumption; the cylinder walls are glazed. There was a lot of sludge buildup and it looks like it wasn't cared for previously. They tell me it would be better to bore the cylinders with new pistons than just honing it. What do you guys think? I want it done right but not spend a fortune but if installing new pistons is the way to go then so be it. I trust your guys opinion.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 10:29 AM
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

If you are going to that process I would go .30 and new pistons and whatever else that needs to be done, do it right and not worry about it in the future.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 11:08 AM
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Rich
 
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Quote:
Originally Posted by camarodude67 View Post
If you are going to that process I would go .30 and new pistons and whatever else that needs to be done, do it right and not worry about it in the future.
X2 REALLY no fun having to do it a second time

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ron
 
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Thanks, that's what I'll do and be done with it.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 03:24 PM
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Bob
 
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Honing rarely deglazes a cylinder completely, especially if its bad. As said above do the .030 over and never look back.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 04:20 PM
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

MEASURE everything THEN decide what action...
The usual problem that a re hone doesn't fix a glaze is that the re hone , like the 1st has not been done correctly in the 1st place... be it the right speed, angle, or grit at fault.
Or simply that when bedding in in those few 1st minutes the rpms oil whatever has not been correct.
Its like when one adds up a long column of numbers gets it wrong.. then re adds going in the same direction and still make the same mistake.

Before ANY machine work is done on ANYTHING... measure everything up 1st.. ONLYTHEN proceed with decision making

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 15, 06:56 PM
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Bob
 
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

When I worked at a machine shop, Steptoe, we have found numerous times that honing doesnt fix it permanently. The metal changes deeper than the visible glaze. I agree 100% to measure first before a bore, there is no going back. Do the minimum required for sure.

68 RS/SS 496 T56 6 Speed Tuxedo black w/ white bumblebee. Strange Dana 60, Spicer 3.73 Helical Gears
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 15, 02:43 PM
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Agree..I spent a bit of time in the ACL labs here.. a real eye opener experiance....
I think u will find the the depth of the annealing is directly related to the mixture and timing of the engine....if ball park not a problem.. if not, one gets excessive temps...bedding in , bent skirts, cracked pistons become an issue....
Considering it is a common practice to drop a dizzy in rough ball park, then start turning the engine over twisting the dizzy, then have it fire way over advanced....and the VA most proberly still connected
from there, its an attitude "Ok is running leave the dizzy where it is, where is the timing light guys?" and its during this period cams rings etc get bedded.
Timing light found, hooked up and idle timing set.... NOT the total @ mid 3000K rpms....and if is the VA still connected.
Throw a lean mixture in on that...

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 15, 05:42 PM
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Anne
 
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Just be sure that the shop you pick can final-hone the new .030" overbore with torque plates; a very important step.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jun 2nd, 15, 11:18 PM
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Re: Glazed cylinder walls

Yeah and match each piston to each cylinder/ hone... yeah these days piston manufacture is pretty damn good....but never assume anything

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