over heating - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 01, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 2
Angry

I have 1984 chevy camro that can't keep cool
I live in Florda. I never had this problem when I live in New Jersey. I've installed
a rebuilt engine a rebuilt trans new rad and
tried a new mechanical fan and electrical fan
and when i turn on my AC on the engine temp strats going up to over heat. I have to shut in down the AC that is. I've tried it with and with out themostate. The same thing happens.HELP . I'm out of Ideas.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 01, 03:49 PM
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Location: San Francisco, CA
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I'm sure it's running hot, but I'd like to know exactly how hot, do you have a good relaible aftermarket temp gauge?, depending on where your shutting it down, Your radator may not be functioning 100%, what about the water pump? Is it rebuilt?, are your belts over tightend? Is there an aftermarket intake on it?, sometimes aftermarket intakes block water passages or restrict water flow. I would take a look at your plugs and see if your running hot there as well, if you are your timing might be wrong. Just some ideas.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 01, 07:15 PM
kos
 
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Location: Killen, AL
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Another thought ...
You said it was rebuilt ... What size engine and was it bored? For example a 400 that's .060 over is gonna run some hotter than a 305 bored .030 over unless it has proper cooling. What size engine did the car come with? It could have a small radiator in it or you could try getting the radiator boiled out and cleaned. Also make sure the car has the spoiler that hangs down underneath the car below the radiator. That helps push air in the radiator while driving and also helps keep the hot air from circulating back through it while sitting still. Make sure the radiator is clean so air can pass through it and not full of bugs or dirt or sand or stuff like that. Try doing this when car has had a chance to cool down ... spray water through the radiator from both side to clean the junk out. One last thing if you put an electric fan on it make sure it's close to the radiator and is pulling/pushing (depending on which side you mount it) from front of car to back. If you have a clutch fan make sure clutch is good and you have a fan shroud or it will not pull air through the radiator.

Sorry so long but hope that helps.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 04:16 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Stuart, Florida
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Gotto love cars in Florida. If the old folks don't get you, the heat will.

Make sure your front air delflector is all there. These cars are bottom breathers and will over heat if they are broken or missing. Also, if you are electric fanned, is it a single or dual system. If single, the fan should come on as soon as the a/c is turn on, regardless of engine temp. If it is a dual fan setup, one of the fans will come on with the a/c and the other will be temp controlled. Make sure this is working. Also, depending on how new the motor is, the motor will run hotter during a break in period.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 09:46 AM
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Location: McAllen, Texas
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Get a presure tester and put presure in the rad. Maybe one of the hoses has a small leak. Also make sure your rad cap is still good. Don't run the car without a Termostat. It helps the hot water cool down and helps with circulation. If all these are good then I would change the water pump again.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 10:06 AM
 
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by all means make sure the radiator is matched to the engine size, this can bite you when doing an engine swap or boring an engine. if you have to call a radiator supplier and find out what radiator should be in the car with your engine combination.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 10:09 AM
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Location: Monroe, WA, USA
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an electric fan can "stall" if too close to the radiator. i have found that between 1" and 2" is the best distance for great cooling and no stall. i just put a 16" single fan on my blazer. i had a shroud made for it at a local heating shop. it work's great! and it flow's better then my buddy's set up with 2 14" fan's mounted on the radiator.

if you have a clutch fan or flex fan, flex fan's are junk IMHO' you need a shroud to make it work best. you want about 1/2" to 1" clearnace around the fan in the opening, and about half the fan blad covered by the shroud. and around 2" to 6" distance from the radiator.

hope this help's.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Sunrise Fl
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The engine that came out was a 5.0 and the rad is 4 core. There is no themostate and I've installed the air dam and the air dams in the nose. the car only over heats when the ac is on and the fan is runing when the ac comes on. The timing is 6% btd and I have a 16 inch sigle fan and it is clean in between the rad and condenser and the temp sensor is new with oem temp gauge. The engine was a rebuilt swap out this problem was happening with my out engine.This car is making me nuts. This heat down here makes me nuts. I need my AC in this heat. Help
Thanks ToyTools
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 05:54 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: dallas tx usa
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My sons 74 camaro was doing close to the same thing in the texas heat. You need to use a thermostat to give you some restriction so the water gets ample time to cool. How hot is it getting? My sons car was running 160 and climbing to 195 but staying there. We made the decision that was acceptable even though the car should be running at 160 with the 160 degree thermostat. Changing the cap is always a good idea, they are cheap.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 4th, 01, 06:03 PM
kos
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Killen, AL
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What kind of temps are we talking about anyway? I own an '89 IROC and with the air on and a 170 thermostat it'll stay around 190. If I stop it'll start heading to 220 or so. Does it get hot while driving or when you are in stop and go traffic? Have you tried running the heat full blast with the A/C on to see if the temps stay down? I know it sounds silly but if running the heat helps any at all then I'd say it will be something to do with the radiator forward.
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