My car's exhaust used to be set up for headers, the motor that is in it now has manifolds. The guy who installed the motor cut the connection off for the headers and installed some new exhaust pipe which extended the exhaust upto meet the manifolds.
I noticed the other day that the connection where the old pipe meets the new pipe is just clamped, not welded. Is this acceptable or should the whole system have the joints welded from the manifolds back?
I do hear a popping sound from under the car when it's decelerating or climbing a hill and I should be in a lower gear.
I assume he just clamped it because he didn't want to tack weld it and then remove the whole exhaust from the car and do a weld completely around the new joint and then reinstall the entire exhaust.
I don't think many places would give you a welded seamless exhaust. He probably used the clamps so if you go back to headers you can unclamp what you have now.
He used one of those on one side and a skinny horse shoe type clamp on the other side. I'll try to find one of those locally so atleast both side are the same.
I noticed the other day that the connection where the old pipe meets the new pipe is just clamped, not welded. Is this acceptable or should the whole system have the joints welded from the manifolds back?
I have fully welded all mine over the last near 40yrs... nps.. and run cast truck rams horns.
Down sides..
1/if it is.. is when replacing mufflers.. means cutting, but using a roller chain cutter is easier than removing clips sleeves....also re welding one needs to have access to a hoist.
2/ If droping the drive shaft, one needs to drop at the bottom of the manifold flange.. on a hoist.. and if want lift the whole exhaust system out.. again a hoist that will lift high enough to lift over the diff.
Put in perspective.. neither of these operations need to be carried out very often once car is set up
Hint thu.. the bottom studs of the cast manifolds, remove and re tap to a 5/8 bolt head...put new studs in and on the back side a quick touch with mig welder to ' lock in place.. but still able to touch with a grinder if ever need to remove.
An excellent product is a ball and socket joint: http://www.corsiautomotive.com/purchaseourhookups.html I brought my Flowmaster exhaust to Corsi and he tweeked it to fit correctly, and made my downpipes because I do not run headers. With band clamps and ball and sockets I can easily drop the entire exhaust. I just had to replace a donut and it was a cake walk.
Do not use stainless studs in exhaust manifolds the vendors want to sell you.
Check closely around the joint where the clamp is. If there is any indication of carbon or soot the joint is leaking and likely causing your popping on decel.
My opinion on the best clamp on the market is the Clampco V-band assemblies. Far far superior to anything I've tried or seen.
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