new pistons on used rods - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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robert
 
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-i read something about heating that "metal tube" that connects the piston with the rod.

otherwise it wont fit? whats the best way to heat it up?

-what torque should i use on the bolts that connects the rods with the crankshaft?

many thanx (again!)

Z28 1984
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rollerrockers1.5/9.72 forged pistons
ported '66 461 heads 1.94,1.5/Flowtech shorty headers
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 03:06 PM
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Robert;
I don't 'heat' that "metal tube" (or as I like to call it 'the Piston Pin') before I install them - I chill them. Chilling the pin makes the outside diameter smaller (by an RCH) and makes it press easier.
The key work here is "press" - if th epins are 'press fit' and not 'floating' the pins are pressed into the rod and no amount of heating them will allow you to push them onto the piston.
Some builders will warm the pin end of the rod before pressing - but, I don't find this is necessary if the interferance size is correct and the pin is chilled.

The rod bolt torque for stock chevy rods is 45flbs. (@60~62 Nm) you can check this http://www.torquespecs.com/ or other sites for specification.
If you are using ARP or any other bolt supplier check their information for torque or sretch specification.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 03:09 PM
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Bill
 
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Robert,
I dont know what the machine shop situation is over there...but there is a special rod heater made by Sunnen that most of us use. You actually have to heat the end of the rod so that it expands enough to allow the pin to slide in. If you get it too hot, it can ruin the rod. I have heard of guys using a torch, but that gives me the the shivers. The torque on the rod nuts wil depend on what type of rod and bolt it is.
I would suggest finding a shop with a rod heater to install the pistons for you. Try a search here:
http://www.aera.org/dbWeb/MembersByCountry.htm

Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
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Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 04:04 PM
 
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Bill,

What is the temp. or color of the rod end upon heating so the pin can slide through??

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 04:50 PM
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Dave
 
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I use a heat gun on the small end of the rod and freeze the piston pins. They press in or out fairly easily this way.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 05:02 PM
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Dohhh - double post!

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 05:03 PM
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I live in sunny California so I just stick the rods in the sunny spot at the window for awhile and chill the pins. This has always worked for me but I know engine & machine shops that use a dedicated heater.

Sorry BillK - I meant to refer Robbert to a Machinist for this but forgot to in my original post.
It can be done in a home shop with the right set-up. I bought the Kent-Moore tools for this many years ago.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 05:14 PM
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Robert,
The correct temperature is somewhere around 450 deg. It does not discolor the ends of the rods in any way. The Sunnen rod heater has a timer that heats the rod ends for the correct amount of time without overheating them.
Dont take this the wrong way, but I have seen too many pistons ruined by guys trying to press the pins in without heating them. It takes some dedicated fixtures and a lot of patience to do it correctly. I dont like it because it is almost impossible to do without scarring the pin as it goes through the rod, no matter how much lube you use. If you want to try it, go ahead, but try one on an old piston first to see how you do. When you are done, the piston should move VERY VERY freely on the rod. If it does not, you will have trouble.
I am not one for telling people not to try it themselves, as I am also the type that wants to do everything myself also...but I know the limitations of my knowledge and equipment. Sometimes its just best to pay someone to do it [img]smile.gif[/img]

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 03, 08:57 PM
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Interesting topic. When I built the shortblock for my truck about 4 years ago the small ends of each and every rod had a blue discoloration about 1/2" wide...to me an obvious sign of overheating. Knock on wood, no trouble after all these years.
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