How do I install a gear drive? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Don
 
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I just picked bought a pete jackson gear drive but I haven't seen it yet. So, I was just wondering are there still two little dots that I'll aim right at each other then just slide the idler gear in between or...?
Also, I heard about a guy welding a piece of steel 1 1/2" long and .125 thick to the back of his timing cover to keep the idler gear from walking out? Is this a good idea?
When I put the gear drive on(being that my crank is out too) should I get the number one piston at TDC or does it even matter?
Thanks alot,
Donnie
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry about the double post...
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 10:32 AM
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Donnie,
Well I was just over in Redding this past weekend visiting some relative's.
Anyways, I also have a Pete Jackson Gear drive and once you get the package. You will find very good instructions on how they want it installed. I have never heard of welding in a piece of metal that "thick" before. Just follow their directions. And "Enjoy the Whine".

------------------
TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Don
 
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Tony,
Do you live around here or were you just visiting? I'de like to see your car sometime if your around again!
The gear drive that I'm buying is from a guy that's already had it on a car...I'm pretty sure that the instructions aren't with it and I have NO CLUE how to set the thing up?
Thanks again man,
Donnie
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 02:36 PM
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Tony
 
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Donnie,
No I currently in the Navy over in Fallon, NV about 69 miles east of Reno.
Let me see if I can find them and I'll scan them in and E-MAIL them to you. This might take a few days as I am hit and miss busy right now.

------------------
TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 02, 06:44 PM
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Remember that on all small block chevy's that I've worked on, the timing marks are at the top of each gear when # 1 cylinder is at TDC for firing with the distributer firing # 1. I'm not sure on gear drives.

------------------
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 03:07 AM
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The latest issue of Hot Rod or Car Craft has an article on just what you're doing. I just read it last week. If you want the info from the article, I can give you the issue date/number or fax you the pages.
On the gear drive system they used, there are no marks or anything to worry about lining up. Good article.
Lemme know...

[This message has been edited by HwyStarJoe (edited 07-31-2002).]
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 03:15 AM
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HwyStarJoe,

Could you please post the issue date/number?

Thanks,
Rob
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 04:27 AM
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We used to get a marine front cover that was much thicker than a stock one (no idea why) it held the idlers in place very well. I really don't know if you will have any trouble using a stocker but I was told to use the thick one and always did.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 07:35 AM
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Sure...
If I don't post it when I get home tonight, it'll be first thing in the A.M.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 12:15 PM
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OK, I lied... the article is in the October issue of Super Chevy. The issue with jenndon's sweet '69 on the cover.
It's on page 58... it's a Milodon geardrive.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 05:10 PM
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Well, I am here to tell you that I weld a flat stock piece of 20 gauge across the timing cover where the idler will ride. This gives rigidity to the timing cover and also a side benefit is that you set the front to back tolerances as tight as you can. This will mean that the gear will not wander, which is real important on a big cam engine, because the idler will actually pulse out away then pulse in with firing. The extra steel prevents this idler from poking it's way out of tolerance with the flimsy timing cover, and actually when set up properly makes the whine a silky smooth sound, the metal plate keeps the resonnance from making a big unwanted racket. It definitely has a more subtle sound.....but still there.

I have put dozens in this way with no problems and keeps the tolerances in tact for a long time.

------------------
STEVE JACK
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 02, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Don
 
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Thanks alot everyone!

So, you're saying to just weld a little piece of 20 gauge to the back of my timing chain cover and it will actually sound a little better? To be honest, I'm not too worried about the sound being better. I just don't want the idler gear walking back and forth like crazy.
Thanks again,
Donnie
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 02, 04:22 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TJS69:
Remember that on all small block chevy's that I've worked on, the timing marks are at the top of each gear when # 1 cylinder is at TDC for firing with the distributer firing # 1.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Uh, you sure about that? Every Chevy I've worked on that is not true. The cam sprocket's mark goes at 6 o'clock and the crank sprocket's mark goes at 12 o'clock.

I just degreed in a cam last weekend. Lined up the dots, and bingo, cam was right on for centerline and intake valve open event.

-gw
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 02, 09:37 AM
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I am glad you mentioned that too cause I was just beginnig to wonder myself

I lined them up one dot directly on top of the other with #1 just on downward stroke

for my first self engine build - so you can imagine my concern



------------------
T.K.

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