Any tricks for replacing cam in car? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I've had it with speculation and this whole operation I've undertaken with my car. I have a new cam/lifter kit already, and since I found that bad lifter, I'm too afraid to just replace it without further inspection. I had decided that the 280H I bought was a better choice, so I think I need to just go ahead and put it in the car. I'm not 100% positive yet, but I think I'll be doing this in the next hour once I talk myself into it....

I have the chassis service manual and a small block rebuilders guide. I have to do it myself, as I want to learn how, and that's how I try to do everything if possible.

With that said, I have a new harmonic balancer installer, and will rent the puller. Is there any tricks to ensuring this operation goes as smoothly as possible?

I will need to pull the front accessories off and the radiator, then possibly move the tranny cooler, but I just put this all on yesterday, so it should be a peice of cake. None of the hoses are hooked up, so it's unbolt and move, easy enough.

I'm mostly concerned with the gasket sealing around the oil pan, and not nicking any bearing surfaces, etc. I might dump some oil down the lifter holes to really lube up the cam for it's journey to the dumpster.

Tips or tricks welcome...
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 01:01 PM
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Sure, take your time!

And you might need to strip more out of the way to allow the cam to come out then what you thought needed to be moved.

Be prepared to jack the motor up some so that you can get at the front pan bolts easier b/c the pan will need to be dropped so you can get the timing cover's lower lip out from behind it.

I think you can use your spare tire's hold-down "J"-bolt as a handle to help you guide the new cam in if not mistaken..

Hope this helps b/c it's been a loooong time since I put one in while the motor was in the car..


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 03:23 PM
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Once all is out of the way, screw the J clip in or a long bolt, preferrably something 8" or better. LUBE THE HELL OUT OF THE CAM!!! Slowly work it in twisting it bac and forth to help clear the lobes, craddling it in one hand with a puddle of lube in it and gently pushing with the other on the bolt.
Once its in, put on your gears and gently spin it around, and the crank to get your marks lined up. Pull off the one gear and put the chain on. Time to reassemble.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 03:36 PM
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Don't forget the fuel pump.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 08:09 PM
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Yeah good catch.. pull the fuel pump and the rod in behind it and set em aside before pulling the cam and the new one is in place.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 04, 01:24 AM
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Once you satisfied with the connection of the cam, chain, and lifters installed, pushrods in, and lash set, before you button up the timing cover, set the timing spocket marks to point to each other as in timing the cam to the crankshaft.

This will set ignition timing to cylinder #6. But, most important, as pdq67 stated, take your time, think the process out.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 04, 08:09 PM
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Tape Measure, Tape Measure, Tape Measure oh i said that more then once, I have done replacements in cars many times ( 1970 Buick Skylark and 1972 Chevelle i owned previous to my 69 ) and you can Measure the Depth of the block ( the camshaft actually is never as long as that measurement ) and then measure from Timing cover toward the fromt Bumper and see if you can get that kinda room to pull it without using funny angles,

The most i have ever had to remove was Radiator and AC condensor on the cars i mentioned above but it Can be done and like everyone has said LUBE and Take your time doing it, Its when you rush that things go bad like gouged Cam bearings.
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