Engine starts rather easily, but immediately stalls-----like 0.5 to 1 second after starting.


Background:

Small block with quadrajet and HEI ignition.


The only thing i've done is to get rid of the ESC function on the distributor by connecting the green and black wires on the pigtail that would normally connect to an ESC computer.

Thoughts?

HEI needs ignition switch controlled relay providing battery power.
Also needs starting power when cranking, such as the yellow wire from the R terminal of solenoid.

I have never used anything except the 12 volts from the ignition switch. Check to make sure you have bypassed the resister wire to the distributor. Also, I have never modified the wiring on the pigtail.

You're correct Jack, '68's & '69's have ign START power, but'67's don't by OEM design.
Yes, he can tie back the OE nichrome wire and run a copper wire from the firewall connector terminal and use a barrel crimp as nichrome does not solder.

Its possible that in your hei conversion youre using just the wire from the starter as your source. Its possible that when you cut off the stock wiring terminal that you lost track of the resistor wire. Just using that one wire will get you started ok but the car will die once you let off the key. Its even possible that if you still have both wires attached it might do that as the resistor wire does not give you the full 12v that the hei requires. It is cut down to a lesser voltage by the factory to make the stock points last longer. It may or may not be enough to power the hei setup, most likely not. You need to run a 12v line from the fusebox to the engine compartment or use the stock wiring to trigger a relay that is supplied by a 12v source in the engine bay. Assuming your car is a 67. I dont know what kind of hei you are trying to use. Is it a smog motor hei with no vac advance?

That's strange. My 67 has power in the crank position. I'm not even using the wire from the starter solenoid. It's taped off and hidden in the wire loom at both ends.

That, I believe, can be achieved by using a 1968 ignition switch and switching the wires around as the 67 plastic plug wont fit on the 68 switch. Or by jumping a diode between 2 of the terminals on a 67 switch. If this is the case and youre just using the resistor wire for cranking and running, it might be harder starting with points or not providing enough power with and electronic ignition system.

Nope, standard 1967 ignition switch. In fact I just installed a new one a short time ago, so it wasn't something strange with my original switch either. I have replaced the resistor wire with a regular wire since I don't need the resistor, so there was no need for the wire from the solenoid.

Another symptom, Puff, could be the ignition switch is faulty internally as in the the IGN position contacts have a high resistance between them.
How many times in the ign switch life has it been turned?
Every time a set of contacts get close enough, an arc will happen and over time a burn spot appears.
Ign switch can be taken apart - be sure to disassemble on a towel as it will catch the springs and other items falling out.
I did a cleaning job to one, un-swagged it, pulled apart, emery papered the contacts as they were black, and reassembled.

I had the same thought, but for 22 bucks just replace it.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...gnition+switch

Depends if one has the money as labor is free.

Hot wire it. Hit the switch.

If it stays ruining you have narrowed it down to the switch, the wiring from the switch to the HEI

Is this a new setup? Was this or any other hei setup working before or is it a new (to the car) setup. If so, what was the last working setup that you had. Points? Other hei? Also, when I replaced my ignition switch last fall, I had a similar issue. One of the connectors had pushed out of the black plastic plug and my car would not start. Took me a while to figure this out. Maybe something similar happened to you.

Yes, this car has always had HEI, so it's not a conversion.

UPDATE:

i can get the engine to run a little longer---like 3-4 seconds if i pump the accelerator about 5-7 times. Then when it stalls, pump it like 5-7 times and it starts again, stalls and so forth. The engine doesn't seem to be flooding when i do this.


The other thing was i took the rotor off, rotated the engine until the mark was about 12 degrees BTDC. The distributor's position looked like it was way too advanced. So, i've retarded the timing by turning the distributor clockwise until it matched the #! post.

i will try starting the engine tonight with the new timing setting.

Is choke closing?
And at the same time, a linkage goes to the fast idle cam and sets it in place, 1400-1600 rpm