Diagnosis of problem - Help please - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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Have had my engine running for about 2 months now. 327. It has a Comp Cams XE256H in it. Also has hydraulic lifters and roller tip rockers.

Took it out for a short drive to the gas station today. During the trip I heard a little ticking, so I came back home and pulled the valve covers off of it. Thinking the rockers could use a little adjustment.

To my dismay I found a very badly bent pushrod on the Number 2 cylinder Intake valve. I got it out ok, went to the store and bought another couple of pushrods. Put the new pushrod in and adjusted it. Seemed to be working ok and then it started ticking again and it bent again.

Working on it a little more, I found that the Exhaust pushrod isn't pushing up at all, even with the rocker off of it. With your finger on it holding it down, it isn't hardly moving up or down at all.

Does this sound like a wiped cam lobe or just a hydraulic lifter not working properly?

The rest of the pushrods and valves seem to be working just fine.

Thanks for the help in helping to diagnose this.

Randy
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 11:01 AM
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Randy,
As much as I know you dont want to hear it, it sounds like a wiped lobe
It also sounds like the intake valve might be sticking open, allowing the pushrod to pop out of place and bend.
If you dont mind, I am really interested in knowing exactly how your engine startup / cam breakin procedure went, including what type of cam and lifter lube and what type of oil you used in the engine. There have been way too many guys having problems with wiped cams lately and I am trying to figure out if there is a common cause.
Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 12:13 PM
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Bill I am about to break in the same cam. I am going to use Kendal GT oil because it is the only one that the zinc wasn't taken out of for emmisions. EOS will be used and the Comp Lube that comes with the cam. So far I have not had a street cam ever go flat but I am also very carefull to make sure the engine starts immediately. I will let you know how it goes.

[ 10-26-2003, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: oger ]
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Engine was bought from a local engine manufacturer in june. It was a long block with 461 heads. I watched him put the cam in with proper lube. He then put it in his oil tank and prelubed the engine while I watched.

I then took the engine home and it sat for about a month and a half while I was putting it together. Every once in a while (with the oil pan on) I would pour a little more oil into it. (30 weight) Once I got it ready to fire up, I dumped the oil that was in the pan, filled it with 30 weight quaker state and with an oil primer and drill, primed the engine until I saw oil coming out of the pushrod tubes.

After getting the distributor in I started it and broke in the engine at the proper RPM 2k for about half an hour I then dumped the oil that was in it, changed the filter and put in another 5 quarts of 30 weight and it ran great until today.

Luckily, the engine is on warranty, but I will find out how good the warranty is tomorrow morning.

[ 10-26-2003, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: 67RSM3 ]
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oh, and I just checked something else. The valves move up and down just fine by putting a nut on the stud and using a crow bar to push the valves up and down on number 2 cylinder. Of course that isn't under any rpm.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 02:35 PM
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Thanks for the info Randy. I have heard from a pretty reputable source that the new SJ Rated oils have very little, if any zinc and other compounds needed to protect flat tappet camshafts. This is due to emmisions standards. EOS has plenty in it.

I personally have only had one cam go flat, but we think there is a problem with the block on that one ( 390 Ford) The cam was basically stock and it has wiped another lobe on the replacement.

I really wish the cam companies would chime in or publish some info on this, they have got to know there is a problem. One thing I absolutely do is to tell customers that are using a double spring to break the cam in with the outer springs only for at least a couple of hours running time.

Also, I do not like Comp's cam lube. I have been using the ARP Moly lube that they sell for thier bolts and studs. It stays where you put it until you start the engine.

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 03:33 PM
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Hey Bill,

Any chance the pre-lubing and Randy pouring oil through occasionally, washed the cam lube away? I suggest this as it was done way in advance of firing and break-in.

I think how much cranking the engine sees to get it to fire may have a play too...

...Dennis

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Only poured about half a quart through engine before firing into valley before putting on intake manifold.

Engine fired right up first time keyed. Never did get overheated during breakin.

I've got an email into comp cams to see what they say.

Randy
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 08:34 PM
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Pouring oil over the cam/lifters won't hurt a thing. Every engine I have swapped cams in I have done this. 1st thing that comes to mind for me though is the engine sitting for over a month. That lube that comp provides with their cams is very runny and will run off the cam in no time. The stuff they USED to provide with their cams was much thicker and stickier. I like the crane lube as it is a thick, nasty, sticky lube that stays where you put it.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 03, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Best news I've heard all day. My engine builder is going to completely fix the engine on warranty. All I have to do is pull the engine and bring it to him.

This is another example of why you should get a local engine builder to get your engines built or bought from.
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