1969 Z/28 - Engine won't run under load - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
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Folks, first of all thanks for all your help in answering my ongoing questions on this.

First the basics. Motor is a DZ bored 10 over, stock intake, Edelbrock 750 CFM carb chokeless, solid lifter stock cam, 480 distributor with points ignition, taylor wires and Delco 43s plugs. I am running a 50/50 mix of 106 octance Cam 2 and 94 octane pump.

Engine was running SY1, but ran like crap so switched everything to stock except carb, since Holleys are more tempermental than my wife.

Here's the problem: I timed the engine at 8 degrees (rotor pointing at 1 on Cap), vacuum advance plugged, gapped the points properly started her up and set the idle at 800-850. The timing on my dial back red 15 degrees total at idle. The engine runs cool, but sounds a little lopey (on account of the cam). When she starts she would cough twice before she smoothed out but I figured that was the compression.

Backed her into the driveway no problem. Tried to drive back in and all hell breaks loose. Under load she coughs spputters backfires and stalls. Blew a serious shot out of the carb and back towards the windo from the cowl hood (Air cleaner was off).

I pulled the distributor and checked everything again and it seems right. Checked for vacuum leaks and can't find any. One buddy says timing could be off a tooth and your adjustment range can't compensate. Another says valves could be off but I set them based on technical info I got here and checked and rechecked the valves.

I am ready to sell the damn thing and drive my low compression 72 olds which starts up and runs like a champ.

Any idea before I throw a cover over this car and forget about it? I am learning to hate this car. [img]graemlins/angry.gif[/img]

Dave F.<br />1969 Z/28 Hugger Orange X33<br />1964 GTO Tri-power with current RA III YZ - Starlight Black<br />1972 Cutlass 442-Saturn Yellow
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 07:36 AM
DjD
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Dennis
 
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Without a choke any engine that isn't excessively rich will talk back until it's up to operating temp. If at operating temp you still have a the same problem then you most likely have carb tuning issues.

Side note: I've witnessed a lot of guys have problems with 302's because they are too gingerly with the gas and clutch. Ya gots to be a bit agressive with that little mouse, give it some Rrr's and work the clutch a bit... It's not a '72 Olds!!

...Dennis

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 09:08 AM
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Mark
 
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Mine runs pretty crappy when cold as well. I usualy need a 5-10 minute warm up from dead cold engine. She runs pretty good when fully warm though.

-Mark.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 02:13 PM
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How about the condensor...is it new? A bad condensor will make em doggy. Especially at cruising speeds. Often the engine won't rev very much past 2500-3000RPM.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dnult:
How about the condensor...is it new? A bad condensor will make em doggy. Especially at cruising speeds. Often the engine won't rev very much past 2500-3000RPM.

I could also imagine the dwell setting causing problems. Gapping should get you pretty close though.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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