Engine miss, serious frustration - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 04, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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My engine has had a miss for a while now. I cant figure it out, Ive tried everything I could think. Its #2 cylinder for sure, because that plug is always real black and sooty but all the others are nice tan color. Ive changed cap,rotor,wires,plugs, and checked all connections numerous times with no results. The compression also checks fine, so any suggestions? Im stumped.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 04, 10:12 AM
 
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Did you check out the carb? Remove the front float bowl and make sure the jets are both in place. I know it's sounds strange but I have seen jets work their way out before, if pass. side jet is loose or fell out, could make #2 cyl. run richer than the rest.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 08:21 AM
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Wouldn't hurt to try swapping the plug and wire on number 2 cylinder to see if the problem moves. If so its probably a bad wire.

If you can't get the problem to move it would be a good idea to try a cranking compression test to make sure all the cylinders (including #2) are within 10% of each other.

Also, check your carbs float levels, levels that are too high or too low can cause misses and strange stalling problems.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 08:54 AM
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One other thing you may want to try is start the car at night with the hood open (no lighting) and see if you are having an arcing problem. It could very well be that the wire on #2 is too close to some grounding point (header, head, block, bracket, etc...). I have seen it happen many times.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 08:24 PM
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If the ignition and carb check out, yank the valve cover and turn the engine over while watching the rockers. A flattened or failing intake lobe can also cause this. The extreme vacuum caused by the decending piston and the non-openeing intake valve will pull oil up past the rings, and make a mess out of a spark plug. This is from experience.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 09:10 PM
 
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A bad valve guide can also be allowing oil into the combustion chamber, giving the same condition as what travis described above.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 10:13 PM
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An oil ring gone bad could cause it without showing up on a compression test.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 4th, 04, 11:15 AM
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so could a bad intake gasket sucking oil from underneath





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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 4th, 04, 11:44 AM
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or a bad valve seal

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 06:57 AM
 
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JOIN THE CLUB PAL, SEE MY POSTS ABOUT ROUGH RUNNING 327, DEAD CYLINDERS 3,5 & 7
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I checked the float levels, looks fine. I took the carb and distributor off and went thru them, everything looks good. I used a temp gun and aimed it at each header pipe right at the head and #2 is about 150 degrees cooler than the rest. Looks like I may be pulling the motor soon to dig deeper.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 04, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well, it seems it was an intake leak after all. I pulled the intake and found lots of oil was getting in from the lifter valley. All but one intake port had signs of oil getting thru the gaskets. I first that it was because I didnt use any high tack sealer but after putting a straight edge on the intake it was evident that it is BADLY warped on both sides. Ive been chasing these leaks forever.

So I called edelbrock and they told me to put it back on with the Right Stuff sealer around all ports. So I RIght Stuffed it and it seemed to work at first but now its got probs again, you think the gas ate up the right stuff? I ran some techron valve cleaner thru the tank the next day after the sealer sat over night too. I think its time to get a new intake? I dont know why this happened I never over torqued the bolts.

How much do you think these intake port leaks could have effected my time at the track? Im anxious to see what it does when its not leaking.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 04, 01:54 AM
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You can take the manifold to your local head shop and have them belt-sand it flat, or buy a new manifold.

Alum does "creep." Especially after being clamped in a spot for some time. I find this happens if using a layered manifold gasket. I always use a single-layer paper gasket, thinner and less crush.

Believe it or not, book binding tape works very well.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Nov 25th, 04, 06:49 PM
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Like Everett said, take it to a competant machine shop and get it surface. I would suggest getting a set of extra thick intake gaskets afterwards. I fought that same battle with a weiand 8004 one time and after trying nearly every intake gasket available, ended up getting the intake machined and put on a set of mr. gasket extra thick intkae gaskets, and never had another problem. Don't use regular intake manifold gaskets that come in most rebuild sets...they are too hard for aluminum.

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