Changed Module and Coil what next? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 04, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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I was driving home today when my car turned off. I slowed down to make a turn when the car felt like the carburator got to much gas and died. Well I went full throtle to see if it would clear up my 4-barrel carb. but nothing. I then Checked for spark and found none. Well since the module controls the spark I said I will change the module, and it will work again. Well the car still didn't start. Changed the coil to see if that would work, but still no spark. I took the module I took off to get it checked and the module was a good one. Is there a fuse somewhere or something else I need to check? I can't be without a Camaro, I need it.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 04, 10:34 AM
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Well, if you have 12 volts to the HEI, then check the pick-up coil for a broken wire, or being bad.

A test light should flicker when cranking engine at tach lead.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 04, 10:40 AM
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Check for power at the distributor connect with the key in 'Run' position. Sould be @12vdc.

Is the system HEI ???

Do you have a Tac ? Is the wire from Dist to the Tac grounded ?

Have you checked rotor ? Broken, Shorting or ???

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 04, 11:02 AM
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Check the rotor button they are bad about burning through. Take it off and look for a black spot on the bottom.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 04, 07:07 AM
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There is a guy on the board here that goes by choptop. I helped him solve a similar problem months ago. He had power at the ignition when it wasn't running, but try to start it and the voltage would go to zero.

Those old camaros have a resistance wire from the fuse block to the ignition power feed. When guys convert to electronic ignition (HEI), they often replace the resistance wire with a solid copper wire. In choptop's case, the previous owner had tried to spread open the crimp on the old connector and attach the new copper wire to it. It was topped off with a solder job (solder doesn't stick to brass terminals). Over time, it shook loose and presented almost 70 ohms of resistance to the ignition line. We verified the connection by measuring resistance between the ignition switch terminal and the ignition unit with the battery disconnected and the ignition on.

Dave
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Well like I said I changed the Module, and coil and it would not start. Well I had the car towed home. The next morning I said what the heck let's crank it to see if it turns on. Well the car started up great no problems. I had an extra distributor with new pick-up coil so I decided to put it in just in case the other pick-up was bad. Didn't want to get stranded again. So new distributor, new module, new coil, new pick-up coil. Had it running for a while to see if it would heat up and die. Well it didn't. Went to the store and on the way home again dead. No Fire to plugs. The only thing I didn't change was the condensor. Changed it out, now everything new. Went for a test drive and again, Put, Put. I started to crank it hoping it would start up. Well after about 3-5 min. of cranking it started back up. And ever since no problems so far. Maybe the lead from the fuse box to the dist. is going bad? Any other suggestions? [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 07:16 AM
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You never did say if you have the required 12 volts to the distributor. Hard to diagnose without the results of the tests being posted. It could be the battery posts, cables, ignition switch, starter solenoid, or any number of reasons which is why you need to post test results.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 07:53 AM
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The going around a corner part leads me to believe you might be having a problem with the firewall plug. Make sure it is tight and clean.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 08:16 AM
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I had this happen to me and it was the starter wire touching the exhaust manifold. Killed the car everyonce in a while and left you wondering what the deal was. Once the wire cooled enough and got away from the manifold it would start.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 04, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got the reading from the main wire going into the distributor and it had 12volts with key on. There was 12v, but no fire in plugs. The first time it died I slowed down really quick to make the turn into the business. The second time I was turning left on a green arrow when it died on me again. And the last time was when I also did a left turn out of the street where I live. I have HEI if that helps any. "The going around a corner part leads me to believe you might be having a problem with the firewall plug. Make sure it is tight and clean." Where is the firewall plug?
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 04, 07:53 PM
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Look down between the brake booster and left inner fender. But I'm a 68 guy, not sure about how a 75 is set up. The 68s had a bolt in the center that held the plug in place. The 69s went to plastic clips. Not sure what happened after that. You'll just have to study it or perhaps someone will tell us exactly how a 75 is set up. In short its where all the under-hood wires penetrate the firewall. I would suggest a wiggle test with the engine running. See my previous post about the resistance wire replacement gone bad.

Dave
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