header against floor board - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 03, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Manheim, PA
Posts: 8
Question

Last year i replaced a cracked 327 with a 350 punched to a 355. I also replaced the engine mounts (not the towers). I replaced them with energy suspension mounts which are stronger than the OEM that i had in. The new mounts dimensions and hole positions were pretty identical to the OEM. At the time of installation it seemed like everything fit fine. Now I am having a problem with the right side header. It is right up against the floorboard. It makes the floorboard hot which blisters the paint, and burns the carpet. As I look at the exhaust underneath the right side it is 1-2 inches higher at the collector than the left side is. Is that normal? I have already bottomed the car out on speedbumps and curbs, but didn't think it did damage? I also looked for twisted or bent mounts or cross members and didn't notice anything odd. The headers don't look bent either. The headers i am using are the same ones from the 327 (hookers). The car is a '69 plain jane. The new motor is supposed to have 400 horse. Has anyone had this problem or similiar? Will new headers fix the problem? Thanks for any input.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 03, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
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The offset is normal - I think to clear the oil filter. Headers are a pain. It seems like they never fit perfectly. Any chance the tailshaft of your transmission is too high? Get a level guage and check the angle of the tranmsission output shaft and compare that to the differential input yoke. They should be about the same angle (+/- a degree or two.).

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 03, 03:20 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 21,341
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There are three old and one newer rubber mount sets for our cars and I will bet you probably have the tall ones on it so hunt around and see if you can't find a set of short ones on, but beware that they are also wide and narrow at the towers as you call them so this may bite you too!!!

I've posted all the dimensions for all the years if you want to do a search in the archives..

pdq67

PS., towers = frame mounts.....



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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 03, 03:40 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 418
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had the same problem. cut the header flange and install a reducer to the hot pipe, you can now angle it to proper direction. Worked for me. Cheap and easy
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 03, 10:48 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ashby,MN, USA
Posts: 8,305
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is the engine sitting in there a bit crooked? sometimes, if you have slightly loose engine mounting bolts, the whole engine can rock a little bit if the holes in the mounts are slotted. if they are slotted, loosen up the bolts and jack the engine up ever so slightly with a floor jack under the oil pan more toward the low side and try to get it to rock a bit and drop down straight.

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you have to make it up on the spot.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 03, 11:17 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 13
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i got a 69 z with 355 and afr 195cc straight plug heads and quick ratio steering box,i just got off the phone with hedman headers and they told me they have nothing to fit my car because of the quick steering box,so i ask him again and he said we have NOTHING,then i said i had the afr heads and the guy laughed and said we have nothing,i just wanted to send the info what i got,good luck,im in the same boat
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 03, 12:23 PM
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Carl
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: La La Land, CA
Posts: 2,707
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If the headers are the standard Hooker Competition headers the #8 tube routes too close to the firewall. I had a set on mine for 15 minutes before taking them off.

If it's the #8 tube that is causing you problems then the least expensive way to cure the problem would be to have the tube re-routed. Study how a new tube could be fabricated/routed to clear the firewall and have a local muffler shop re-route and weld in a new tube.


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 03, 04:37 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 264
Angry

Don't know if this will work or not. If you have the use of a lift, drive the car to put some heat in the header. Put the car on the lift and raise it. Then take a long pipe a little less in diameter than the header and try to bend the header down enough that the flange will clear the floorboard. I,ve never tried this but have heard talk about it.
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