Distributor help.... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Hello all,

I am making progress on my intake manifold & carb. upgrade and had a question about re-installing the distributor...

Before pulling the dist., I marked the spot where the rotor bug was pointing and made a mark on the back of the dist. and the firewall for reference.

I dropped the dist. back in and the closest I could get it was about 1/2" to the left of the original rotor bug mark on the front of the dist.
(I had to mess with the oil pump drive rod to get that...)

The motor was never turned over after the dist. was pulled...shouldn't it match up exactly?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 01:45 PM
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Hi yes it should match up but if you noticed when you removed the distributor it turned as it was coming out? When you drop it back in it should be dropped in with pointer off just a little so that when it is all the way in it turns to the previous location you marked and since you only referenced the pointer and not the dist. housing also you will probaly need to re-time it also.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 03:01 PM
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Sometimes it takes a few trys to get it back exactly, but you should be able to do it if you didn't move anything. Keep playing with the oil pump drive till you get it right.

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks BillK,

This is my first time to pull the dist.,so I'll keep workin' the oil pump drive rod around until I get it back in the right spot.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 05, 01:47 PM
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And FWIW, it really doesn't matter where #1 points so long as you can adjust the timing. Often times, if you don't put #1 in the general alignment with cylinder #1 the vacuum can will hit the intake manifold making it impossible to set the timing. I only say this so you don't worry too much about the alignment. I think HogMan hit the nail on the head. The distributor will rotate as you pull it out. When you put it in you have to offset the alignment (counter clockwise about 1/2" on the rotor tip I believe) and it will drop right into place with your mark.

68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 05, 08:25 PM
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As an FYI - the slot on the top of the oil pump drive shaft is in the same line as the contact on the rotor. Before pulling the dist, I mark the base of the dist and the intake manifold with a sharpie - a small mark will do - and then turn the engine over until the rotor is either pointing straight ahead or straight behind. Makes getting the timing close on re-install very easy.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 05, 07:30 PM
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I've gotten in the habit of taking a couple of pictures with a digital camera before pulling the distributor out. You can always delete them if you don't need 'em...

69 RS, Hugger orange/black, Deluxe interior, Sony AM/FM/XM/CD, PS & PB. 355, forged pistons, Eagle rods, balanced, Iron Eagles, 9.4:1 CR, .038 quench, XR270HR Cam, Z28 intake, FAST-EZ EFI 2.0, Thorley Tri-Ys, TCI 700R4, 2400 stall, 3.42 posi
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 05, 07:49 PM
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what about bringing it up on tdc comp stroke # 1 at about 10-12* BTDC. Mark on the cap and distributor the corresponding place where #1 is drop the distributor in align the rotor with the point marked on the distributor and you will already be timed within a degree or two. It is nice not to chase the timing or backfire etc. Just another way to do it, without much hassle other than pulling the plugs and turning it over. SS

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