Smoke from tailpipe - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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I drive my 68 about once every 3 weeks or so. There is some white smoke on start up for a minute or so, but seems to go away after it warms up. I assume this is normal due to not driving very much.

Today I noticed on the way home, when I let off the gas from about 60mph or so and just let it coast to about 40mph, white smoke is coming out of the tailpipe. Normal driving, no hotrodding. This is when the car is good and warmed up. It doesn't happen all the time. What is this indicate? Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 02:37 PM
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Flooded engine. Sounds like your floats are either sticking or set a tad too high.

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 02:57 PM
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i thought white smoke meant water burning, if it was running too rich wouldnt it be black? im not 100% sure, just something i remember being told once.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 03:04 PM
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How many miles are on the motor. That sounds more like valve seals to me. Anytime the manifold vacuum is high, such as at idle or deacceleration, it will puff smoke. Heaven forbid it has been deglected on oil changes. The top side of the head can get so coked up with oil goo that the draiback holes plug up and flood the seals. That makes the probem even worse. Time to pull a valve cover and see how clean it is in there and examine the valve stem seals - particularly the intake.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 03:15 PM
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With an auto trans the vacume modulator diaphram can go bad and trans fluid can be pulled to the intake and burn it in chambers in the condition you decribe. It will be smoke white. Water would be steam and disipate quickly compared to to smoke from trans fluid or oil. Can you see it plume or roll and drift away like smoke or does it seem to go away quickly like steam. If it's water you will have a sweet smell from the anti-freeze. If it's water like condensation when you first start it will go away. Could also be water/condensation still in the exhaust system (fiber packing in mufflers) drying out. Had this problem with some walker super turbos on my Chevelle that did not get much driving. Seemed like it would take a while to dry them out if it sat for a while and it was humid out.

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 05:00 PM
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I think you can eliminate leaky valve seals... they puff blue smoke on start up after the car sits awhile.... NOT white.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 04, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the quick info. It is a 327 2bbl, Powerglide with 100,000 miles. This car hasn't been driven much at all.

It seems to be smoke rather than steam coming from the tailpipe due to it hanging around for a bit.

If its just a "sittin around" thing, I wonder if it would go away after 5 or more days of consecutive driving.

I am not to knowledgable when it comes to diagnosing internal motor component problems, nor to knowledgable on carb functionality. So any tips or things I can do to troubleshoot this would be much appreciated.

This may be something that is not that big of a deal anyway as far as motor longevity or performance. Thanks again!!

1969 Camaro X11
L14 307ci/200HP base V8
PowerGlide
Factory AC
62,000 Original Miles

Prior 1968 Camaro
210HP Turbo-Fire 327-2V
PowerGlide
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 04, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nantooch:
Flooded engine. Sounds like your floats are either sticking or set a tad too high.
Can you give me some details on how to check this? I am not too carb savy, so be basic if you don't mind. thanks.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 04, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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I have recently noticed the idle when first started does not drop off like it used too after it warmed up a bit. Could a sticky choke be the problem? If so, how would I go about adjusting it?

Thanks again!
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 04, 07:48 PM
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na, sticky choke would give off black/ blue smoke and have a heavy gas smell to it. Put your face in it for a few seconds and will give a headache

is it a holley or a rochester carb. if a holley, should have a brass plug on the side of the inlet bowl. If facing the carb from the front, will usually be on the left/passenger side. unscrew the brass plug and start the engine. if the float is adjusted correctly, gas should barely trickle out of the hole. If it's too high, gas will pour out.. if too low nothing but fumes will come out.
Ther will be an identical plug in the rear bowl.. check it too. on top of the bowl will be a slotted brass bolt of sorts with a nut around it. loosen the nut and either raise the bolt by turning it counter clockwise or lower it clockwise while turning the nut to allow the movement. This will allow the float to raise or lower respectively. Once set to the right height. hold the slotted bolt still, while turning the nut clockwise til its tight. all done.
If a rochester there may be some debris stuck in the needle jets in the rear. allowing gas to siphon into the motor. a rebuild would be the best bet if thats the case.

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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 04, 01:29 AM
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I would definately check out the auto trans vacuum modulator line at the intake manifold for ATF as suggested by Joe H.. Then check the engine condition by removing the valve cover(s) as suggested by dnult.

Check the easy stuff first, fuel level being on eof them, as suggested by Nantooch.

If it hasn't been driven, then yes, its going to smoke until its been exercised well. A week's worth of to/from work should do it some good. You might even add a can of BG 44K Fuel system cleaner to the next full tank of clean gas.

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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 04, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Joe or Everette,
I'd like to check the vaccum modulator diaphram, but have no idea where to look and what to look for.

If tranny fluid leaking here and causing the smoke, I should have less and less tranny fluid?

1969 Camaro X11
L14 307ci/200HP base V8
PowerGlide
Factory AC
62,000 Original Miles

Prior 1968 Camaro
210HP Turbo-Fire 327-2V
PowerGlide
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 04, 08:23 PM
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Tranny diaphram would be at the tranny,, find a hard line from the carb heading back and down the passanger side. It will go into a squat round metal cannister.. that will be it.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 04, 04:16 AM
 
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2-barrel motor...

First off I would take her out on the road and hold her in low range for like up at 50 mph for about 5 miles after she is good and warmed up to blow the cinders out of her!!

Then I would start looking for signs of any puffing the next trip out..

My Boss years ago took his wife to Pheonix for about a month one year in the winter and he asked me to keep her old Rambler 6-banger auto started. So I did, sucker wouldn't hardly run so I took it out and carefully brought her up to speed like I said, held her there for miles and watched glowing cinders blow out the back of it for like three miles!!

They got back and my Boss jumped me about his wife's car and I got kinda apprehensive/scared, b/c he said, "what'ed you do to Mom's car??.. He then said that his wife said it runs better now than it had in years!!

So I told him I just took it out and blew the "cobs" outta it.. He said his wife never drove her car over 25 mph and then only once or twice a week a short ways around town so that was why the old Rambler was "cindered-up"!!!

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 04, 04:26 AM
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Don,

2 easy ways to check the modulator. way one would be to disconnect the vacuam line at the trans, puta paper towel under it and let it sit overnight, if any fluid drips out, mods bad. Way 2 would be disconnect it at the manifold, plug the hole, and drive it, see if it stops smokin. (it will shift VERY short, and you don't wanna leave it this way for too long.)





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