I'm about to buy a '75 LT with the original 350 w/ 4 barrel carb ant auto tranny. Owner says it has a minor water leak (note I didn't say antifreeze, don't think there's any in it!) low on the block due to a freeze about 6 weeks ago. In those 6 weeks only a half-gallon or so has slowly dripped out. He says after it warms up for a minute the leak stops?
Are any of the "leak-ender"/"stop-leak" type products worth trying?? Should I just steer clear of the car altogether?
Engine runs great with new heads/cam/and rebuilt carb. No sign of smoke/vapor from the tailpipe.
Car is almost ready for paint, has the original rallys w/good rubber and needs an interior overhaul. But hey, asking price is only $750!! (Definitely in my price range!) I figure a straight body is worth that much!? I can handle the cosmetics, but a block swap??
it could be a freeze plug, but it also could be a cracked block. some cracks are hard to see even after magnafluxing, so this is kind of a tricky situation. if the car is worth it to you, even figuring in a new motor, then what the heck. but, if it were me i would not rely on it being a freeze plug, unless it was really obvious, like a drip right off a crusty corroded plug. if it is cracked, it could also be cracked internally. if it has been run, is the oil milky? just be cautious, and consider the worst case scenario. good luck
Could be monor, but I'd figure it isn't if I were you. Remember that 75-76 were the absolute low point in Chevy small block performance history. I'd figure on building an engine for it anyway. How do you detune a 350 small block to only put out 145 horses? It's still a nice car, but I'd expect to build a motor if it were me.
Thanks for the input! I'll definitely check for any water in the oil and try to get it up on a rack too...
Still for $750, probably still worth it??
Already has new heads, cam, and rebuilt 4B carb. The tires and original rallys are are in good shape. Body is 95+% ready for paint, with all of the trim and bumpers in good shape but it needs new carpet and seat covers/padding.
Hopefully I'm going to be able to make up my mind!
If the car has been sitting a while, crack the drain plug and watch for water dripping out around the threads. The water will go to the bottom of the oil pan at first. If there is enough water or enough agitation of the oil it will make it milky.
I've used KW block sealer with success. The one I used looked like slightly dirty water, no much to it at all.
There is another product that is like concrete that will go to the bottom of the block and settle.
I think a weak area is just below the deck on the upper sides of the block.