stock (cast iron) 400ci crankshaft in a 4 bolt,strong? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Sluis, Zeeland, The Netherlands aka Holland
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I can buy a 4-bolt 350, (only the cast-iron part) and a cast-iron 400ci crankshaft.

I know nothing about engines so that's why I will ask this 'stupid' question, just to be sure.

Will the cast-iron 400ci crankshaft fit the 350 4-bolt, and will this be a good start for building a mild streetable 383ci? Or should I seek a forged crankshaft?

I think (almost know for sure) it will fit, and also be strong enough for building the mild (450hp?)383ci....but better ask before I buy things I won't need.


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 08:27 AM
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Not a stupid question at all.

You will have to have the 400 crank turned down on the mains to fit the 350 block. There might be some grinding of the block required to clear the rear counterweight as well as at the pan rail to clear the connecting rods. The rods may also require a small grind to clear the camshaft. You just won't know what is required until you put it together. Shoot for .050 clearance. This is all pretty standard stuff when building a 383.

You will need a balancer and a flywheel/flexplate from a 400.

The cast crank will be plenty stout for a mild street engine. Crack checking it before spending any money on machine work is a good idea.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 10:37 AM
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Matt Jones
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Usually nowadays, you can buy a new crank that will directly fit a 350 block with a 3.75 stroke, that is stronger than a 25 year old factory crank, for just a little more dough. Something to think about, anyway.

Matt Jones
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 10:45 AM
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Right you are Silver, I was probing into some cranks last year, and I believe Scat makes a unit that has the stroke of a 400, but fits right into the 350. Price was good, and David Vizard has tested Scat cranks in excess of 600 HP with no failures to report. This would be the route to go alright.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 05:14 PM
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Please read this...

It's over in the Performance section..

You know, like it say's, "Word of Mouth" thing...


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 04, 09:29 PM
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Interesting read. I have a few friends who use nothing but Scat cranks, and these guys beat on them in circle track. So far, no crank problems at all. Sometimes, like with any product, you get a bad batch. I remember ordering a case lot of Champion plugs where none of them had threads. I also went through 3 L.E.D. lights for my hot tub over a time period of 4 months. Perhaps the worst was when I worked at a Toro lawnmower dealer, and our entire show room of newly ordered machines turned out to have been assembled without oil pumps! In all instances, it turned out to be a bad run at the factory, it just happens sometimes. So perhaps some Scat cranks are not up to par; maufactured between date A and B during a bad run. I wouldn't say Scat is all bad stuff, because I have seen evidence personally that would suggest quite the opposite.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 04, 05:25 AM
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A low end Scat will likely cost the same or less than having the 400 crank tested and turned to work. And is a new, stronger piece.

Sell the crank and buy a Scat for your application.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 04, 07:07 AM
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As mentioned several times above. The stock 400 crank "can" work but, depending on how much you are getting it for, it's probably not worth the hassle. The small amount you save up front will be spent on machine work. You can buy an aftermarket cast, cast steel, cast nodular, or forged crank that are internally balanced so you won't have to use a 400 balancer or flexplate/flywheel. Depends on what parts you already have laying around.

383 cranks are pretty reasonable these days, so personally I would just buy a new one.

Royce (NO XQSSS) Bradley

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