Water Pump Block Off - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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The heater core puked this weekend and since I don't care about heat this time of the year in Atlanta I pulled the hoses and would like to plug the outlet on the water pump.


The piece that is in there looks pressed in. Anyone have any ideas on how to plug the outlet on the water pump?

-Funk
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 09:08 AM
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The easiest way to do this is to just loop the heater hoses together until you decide to fix the problem. I did this on my 68 when my heater core started leaking. It was the middle of the summer and heat was not important. I first just looped them together at the end of the hoses but later got a smaller piece of hose and looped it at the water pump. It's not show quality but I was looking to repair my heater so it was a quick fix
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 12:30 PM
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You can use 1/2" socket (hex) type pipe plugs, available from auto parts and hardware stores, to block off the holes after you remove the original fittings. This looks a lot cleaner and they can't fail like a bypass hose or hose fitting plugs (also available in atuo stores) can. I paint them in place along with the pump, intake, block & etc. and they blend right in. Use pipe dope or oil and solvent type teflon tape on them so they will come back out easy when the weather changes back. BTW you can get new fittings in the "Help Parts" section in most good auto parts stores.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Vintage 68:
You can use 1/2" socket (hex) type pipe plugs, available from auto parts and hardware stores, to block off the holes after you remove the original fittings. This looks a lot cleaner and they can't fail like a bypass hose or hose fitting plugs (also available in atuo stores) can. I paint them in place along with the pump, intake, block & etc. and they blend right in. Use pipe dope or oil and solvent type teflon tape on them so they will come back out easy when the weather changes back. BTW you can get new fittings in the "Help Parts" section in most good auto parts stores.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Dustynn, I thought about that but would prefer the "clean" look of blocking them off. Assuming blocking them off doesn't create a flow/cooling problem.

I can see how that solution would work for the manifold, however the fitting on the water pump is pressed in, there is no "nut" to put a wrench and unscrew it.

I have part A of the problem sovled, trying to figure out part B, which is the pressed in fitting on the water pump.

Thanks!

-Funk



[This message has been edited by CFunK (edited 04-08-2002).]
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 03:15 PM
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Hmmmm - you have me on the "pressed in" part - I've never run into a fitting that was pressed in on a water pump. I have seen a cheap a_s version of the factory type fitting that has a slotted end for driving it in and out with a big screwdriver or something, are you sure yours will not screw out? If you take the hose off and see this 'slot' in the end, maybe you can get it out with a small pipe wrench or some big channel locks?
Using the plugs will not effect the cooling (or heating) of the engine at all.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 03:44 PM
 
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I had an old edelbrock intake with one of
these straight pressed in pipes.
I found a rubber pipe cap and clamped it on
with a hose clamp.Never leaked or thought about it again.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Vintage 68:
Hmmmm - you have me on the "pressed in" part - I've never run into a fitting that was pressed in on a water pump. I have seen a cheap a_s version of the factory type fitting that has a slotted end for driving it in and out with a big screwdriver or something, are you sure yours will not screw out? If you take the hose off and see this 'slot' in the end, maybe you can get it out with a small pipe wrench or some big channel locks?
Using the plugs will not effect the cooling (or heating) of the engine at all.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

OOOH, OOOH Yes sir, there is a slot on the fitting. Time to break out the big "Molly" breaker bar and twist that thing off the water pump!!

Actually, I got to looking at it tonight and figured the "slot" was used to spin it out of the water pump. Actually busted a screwdriver trying to get it out. I need something with a bit more beef to unscrew it. I hope it isn't reverse threads?

UPDATE: Uhm, this thing AIN'T gonna move. I have three bloody knuckles and a broke screwdriver to show for it. Any other ideas?


-Funk



[This message has been edited by CFunK (edited 04-08-2002).]
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 08:16 PM
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If you have access to a "hot wrench" (torch) try heating the fitting slightly to see if it breaks loose, it usually works if used with a good rust busting oil like GM 'Heat Riser Lub.' - DO NOT get the pump to hot! Lay a wet rag over the pump body while your working so it stays "cooler".
I've used this method to get lots of stuck stuff out.
Last resort try drilling it out and retap to 1/2"npt.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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I have it soaking in some lube for now and will try tomorrow to get it out.

Thanks for the input

Funk
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 02, 03:38 AM
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CHAN-NEL-LOCK makes a super pair of pliers, The jaw head is some what wierd looking, I have a pair these for ten years now, they will grip anything round and hold on tight, I have twisted off 1/2 diameter bolts with the sucker just to show how well they grip.
They are gentle enough to use also on brake and tranni lines when the regular wrench spins the nut round, I am sure if have a pair of these the pipe plug you are messing with will be history.
Rob.
By the way vise grips are garbage compared to this baby.
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