Changing valve springs - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 03, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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I need to change out my valve springs on my vortec heads and I have a few questions. The heads are on the block and I don't want to remove them. My first question is about how to use air pressure to hold the valve up while the spring is removed. I borrowed a compression gauge that disconnects form the gauge so you can hook up an air hose to it. It has a removable piece like the one in a valve stem on a rim which holds the air in. If I remove it, the air just rushes out through the motor. I had about 120 lbs of air, maybe that is to much. What is the correct method?

The next question how to use the tool to compress the spring to remove the keepers, thus remove the spring. The tool is made by K-D and it's # 912.Am I correct in thinking that the "fork" part goes in between the spring coils rather than on top pushing it down to take pressure off the keepers? If so it appears that I'll have to remove the screw in studs to get the forks into the spring.

These may seem like silly questions, but I don't want to mess something up experimenting

Dan.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 03, 03:24 PM
 
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OK..

The air thing should look like a half a sparkplug with either a male or female air chuck on it to match whichever you have on the air hose.

Screw it in the sparkplug hole and then take your rockers off and keep the ball and nut with its rocker so they can go back together like you remove them.

Put the air hose on the plug thing and put the air to her. This should hold your valves up fine.

The tool you have should fit right around the top of the retainer so that when you compress the spring/valve ***'y, you can use a magnet or a fine pick to remove the little keeper halves carefully..

And it's a good idea to use a couple of clean shop towels to plug the oil drainback holes so that if a keeper half does get by you, it doesn't end up in your motor!!

Take your time and work slowly and everything should go fine, imho...

You may want to bring each piston up to TDC so that if by chance something should slip, you don't lose a valve completely and have to remove the head to get to it... It should be easy to turn your motor over by hand with all the plugs out....

Good luck, pdq67



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 03, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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pdq67, I had allready removed the rockers and placed them in order. I just did a test with the air as you described and pushes down on the cap and the spring went down releasing the keepers just like you said. I did not remove the keepers, I will start fresh tomorrow.

Thanks for your help [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Dan.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 03, 04:03 PM
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It takes a little more time, but I rotated the engine on each one to the compression stroke TDC, changed the seals in my case, and adjusted valves before moving on to the next cyl., use enough air to hold the valve up but not so much as to push the piston back down in the hole.
Guy
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 03, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Guy, that sounds like a good idea. Seems like it would save time in the long run. I'll try it. [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Dan.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 03, 02:41 PM
 
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Great!

pdq67



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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 03, 03:23 PM
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Forget the chance using air, try an old plug wire inserted through the plug hole. Turn the motor by hand until it won't go any more, but not killer tight. This will hold the valves in place 100% of the time and you don't have to worry about losing air pressure. Change the spring, then back the engine off and pull the wire out of the hole and move on to the next one.

Oldani Motorsports

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 03, 07:13 PM
 
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Angry

Yes Steve that's another good way too!!

pdq67

PS., He, He!! Laugh, laugh!!

"What I really like to do is pull the heads off an old '58, 392 Hemi MOPAR motor that's still in the car, do a valve job and then put the suckers back on.......... NOT!!!!""



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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 03, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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Wouldn't you have to bend the wire to catch the intake valve?

Dan.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 03, 01:23 PM
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Nope - just keep pushing the wire in until you can't push any more in and it'll take care of both valves. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

JohnZ
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 03, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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How DO you guys think of this stuff? [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Dan.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 03, 03:47 AM
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Works really well at the racetrack when after you warm the car and drive to the lanes for the round the car sounds horrible, and you figure a spring or rocker arm has broken, lol. Yes I have been there/done that. Nothing like the pressure of being in the lanes trying to change a broken spring and everyone standing there wondering if you will make it up to run. I had this happen at Topeka one year at the national event when I was running my dragster there. Got it changed and won the round! Thankfully I had a Jesel rocker shaft setup so all I had to do was pull the shaft on that single cylinder, and never had to reset lash.

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