Nickle content.... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning folks!

OK, I understand what the alloy content numbers mean that sometimes show up behind the timing cover. My '80 350ci truck block has no numbers there, meaning it doesn't have much if any nickle and might be sucessable to breaking. Is this something I should worry about? It's getting bored .030 over but the crank/pistons/rods are going to remain stock.
I will admit that once it's done, I'll probably beat on it a little. By nature I have a heavy foot, especially if the vehicle I'm driving responds nicely. I just don't want to sink all kinds of bucks into a 4-bolt block that might snap. I'll definitely have a 4 core radiator and the best fan setup I can in it just to keep it cool. I hope that helps.

Thanks for the opinions folks!



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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 04:36 AM
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I don't know if they changed the blocks when they moved the dipstick but every late 70s block I have run into was really bad. They are so thin that the lifter galley cracks for no reason. If you can compare weights with an early block you can see what I mean they are much lighter than an early block.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Crap! How the heck does the lifter valley crack?!
If this thing was in a 4x4 truck that towed a boat and wasn't very well maintained, I'm gonna have to spend a bundle getting it checked out before I even go any further on it. Crap!
Well, I've always wanted to stuff a big block in the car anyway. Let's see.... that puts the project back 2 or 3 more years. (trying NOT to be defeatist)

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 05:46 AM
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Just get the block maged if it has lived through what you did to it and not cracked it might be alright. The problem with the lifter galley is that it shows no ill effects untill you take it apart. It is usually cheaper to buy an engine from Chev than build one.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't own the truck... my father-in-law gave me the truck and I yanked the engine because I knew it was a 4-bolt.
I didn't see anything wrong with it yet. I'm getting out my halogen lights and a magnifying glass tonight and take a better look at that valley now! Maybe I'll tap on it with a hammer and see if I can hear any differences in different spots.
Otherwise I'll just add magnifluxing to the machine shop bill.

Thanks oger!

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 10:30 AM
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Actually the first thing most shops do after cleaning is to mag the block just to make sure.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 11:44 AM
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the motor i had in my blazer was maintained and made happy. when i finaly needed to rebuild it, the lifter valey was craked. it had a rebuilt motor in it all readdy and the block was from a '79 truck. it was not ever over heated or anything like that. the machiene shop said" this is what happen's to about 50% of the late '70's and early '80's block's they check out".

[This message has been edited by ilbl8 (edited 04-13-2001).]
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 03:09 PM
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I have a 77 350 station wagon motor that I got magnafluxed and it was ok. It got insanely overheated in its first life and now its a screamer(350+++ hp) with 3000 hard miles on it. I heard that seasoning is good for a block so if it passes magnulfluxing it might be good to use.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 01, 05:48 PM
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You won't have problems at all at .030 over regardless of the nickel content. Generally two bolt mains can handle up to 450 HP with no problems. Even .040 over is OK so don't sweat it. .060 overs can be a problem.
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