What needs to come off to install my cam? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 05, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Dale
 
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I have taken some advice from the people at this forum. I recently purchased the GMPP hot cam with the 1.6:1 Rocker Rollers for my ZZ4. Also, after reading the replies to some of my questions about the cam I decided to include the GMPP fast burn heads.

I will be starting this upgrade as soon as I can find some time. However, as I stated in my first post, I am not much of a mechanic (Yet). So with some help from a friend who has a lot more experience than me and probably several posting for my self to this very informative site, I hope to be able to accomplish this upgrade.

This brings me to my first question. My friend works about as much as I do. (About 12 a day) So he has asked that I do some of the groundwork to save time.

My questions are.

What must be taken off the front end of my 67 RS and what can be worked around?

Also, I have a KwikLift. Should I put it up on the lift or leave it down. It lifts 30” from the ground to the bottom of the tires. (My thoughts where, once it was up and I started the work it would be tuff bringing it down.)

Thanks for any replies


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 05, 05:38 PM
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Timing chain cover.
Crankshaft dampener.
Drop front edge of oil pan (probably means removing all the pan bolts)
Water pump
Fan shroud
Radiator
A/C condenser (if equipped)
Hood latch support bracket and horns.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 05, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Will I be able to leave the front grill on? It's a RS with folding headlights. I would hate to remove if it's not necessary.


Photo of my 67 RS
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 05, 04:36 PM
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I've done it with my 69 RS grill on, would assume that you should be able to do it with a 67 RS as well.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 05, 06:19 PM
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Also the fuel pump if you run a mechanical one.

Jody


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 05, 07:31 PM
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and you'll need to buy or borrow a puller for the balancer.





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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 05, 03:11 AM
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You dont have to remove the grill.Do you have A/C?

67 Plum Mist Met. 408 TH350 3.08 posi
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 05, 07:00 AM
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Intake manifold & distributer to get the lifters out. Make sure to line up #1 TDC on compression. The exhaust manifolds. Thats all I can add right now.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 05, 07:43 AM
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The Hot Cam will have a cam sprocket locating pin that is much longer than the old style small blocks.(originally designed for use in the LT4) Place your cam sprocket on the cam and gently tap that pin in until it is flush or just short of flush with the sprocket. If it sticks out 1/8" or so beyond the sprocket that's fine - just so it doesn't contact the timing cover.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 05, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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67 Plum,

I do have AC.


My 67 RS
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 05, 04:37 PM
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You dont have to remove the condenser just take the hood latch assembly out and you can drop the condenser down and foward enough to get the cam out.No reason to take exhaust manifolds off to change cam.When you go back together on a smallblock when the cam timming marks are lined up the engine is at TDC on #6 not #1.

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