Question about Electronic Ignition - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 04, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Donnie
 
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I've heard people talk about removing the points and condensor and replacing them with an electronic ignition. Can someone tell me exactly what all is removed/replaced and would I need to add a vallister resistor? Do you have to change out the distributor or just remove the parts from your factory one and add the electronic ignition part(s)? I have the factory DZ302 motor. One other question I have concerns the carb. I took the factory 780 off because of problems and put on a Holley duel line double pumper 750 on it several months ago and the two problems I'm having is after you drive several miles and you come to a stop it won't idle and for some reason I can't get the 4 barrel to come in. The back flaps open and gas is coming out, but I never fill or hear them come in while I'm driving.

Donnie

1969 Z28, Fathom Green, DZ302, M20, 3:73, PS, TW
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 04, 04:59 PM
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The distributer parts you were asking about come as a kit. It does go inside your old distributer like you thought. One thing a lot of people forget/neglect to do is run a new wire from your fuse box (normally) to the distributer to get 12 volts instead of the 9 volts used with points.Make sure to hook it to an 'ignition on' with switch on or you won't be able to shut it off.Someone else will need to answer your carb question, sorry.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 04, 10:51 PM
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when you put the new carb on, did you allow the car to warm up and open the choke to kick off the fast idle (if it's an electric choke) and then set the idle speed screw? if not, the screw could be backed off too far, shutting the throttle blades completely when it comes off fast idle, and not allowing any air to get thru to allow the engine to idle at all.
a couple of years ago, a friend of mine- who has tinkered with a few cars in his time but is now for the most part afraid of getting dirty- decided to be a manly man and put a new Edelbrock carb on his 71 Camaro in place of the Holley 3310 that he had installed a few months before. he put the carb on, and got it running. but as soon as it got warm, it would just flat out die. he drove it out to my cousin's house for a party a week later- 120 miles away- with it running like tha. and it's a 4 speed car, so it must have been a fun drive.
anyways, i asked him why it died like that, and he told me he put on a new carb that is junk out of the box. i went into my cousin's garage, grabbed a screwdriver, and told him to pop the hood. i cranked the idle speed screw in until it opened the throttle a bit, and told him to start it. lo and behold- it idled right at 800 rpm. we gave him much crap about that for the rest of the night...

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 04, 11:11 AM
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Donny, the ignition you're talking about is Pertronix. I've heard they work well.





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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 04, 11:26 AM
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The first thing you should do with a new carb is set the float levels. Then with the engine warm set the idle around 750 - 800 rpm's and adjust the mixture screws for best vaccuum or highest idle, then reset the idle speed. With the engine off have someone push the gas pedal all the way down and see if the secondaries are opening. You might have to make a linkage adjustment.
The ignition system I put in mine uses an infrared trigger and a breaker wheel that mounts under the rotor. The trigger is wired to a small control box that has wires that connect to the coil. I don't remember who made it, but it's been working well for twelve years.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 04, 11:47 AM
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I believe '12' is talking about the Mallory "UniLight" type electronic ignitions.
I have installed lots of the #501 systems in GM distributors since the early 70's and never had a failure yet. They use an infrared trigger vs the Hall-effect used by Pertronix.
I have also used the Pertronix system and not had any problems either.
Both are available from most auto parts houses and all the speed places like PAW, Jegs & Summit.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 04, 12:43 PM
 
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Donnie, I have a 66 chevy 2 with a 350 in it and i am using the factory distributor with the petronix ignitor 1 electronic module and it works good,but if i did it over i would use the Ignitor 2 because it has protection to keep it from burning out if the ignition is left on while not running.They are real easy to install
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 04, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies, I really do appreciate them all. If I remember correctly, when I bought the carb a friend of mine put it on and probably only set the air/gas mixture, and the idle and didn't check things like the floats, etc. If I do install the electronic ignition what differences would it make with my car?
Thanks again,
Donnie
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 04, 06:54 AM
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It will have a more reliable spark, easier to start, idle better, spark plugs will last longer. If you have any missing, off idle flat spots, stuff like that may get better.

And you'll never have to replace or adjust the points again!





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