newbie 350 tuning questions - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 03, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hi everyone, just bought my first camaro, its a 1969 camaro SS with a 350 (doesn't appear to be original)
Unfortuantely I bought the car from a guy who used it little, and knows nothing about the engine (built by previous owner to him)
Anyway...I just fired up the engine after its been sitting for about 3 years and I was hoping people could give me an insight as to the best tune up procedure. It has a delco distributor (looks as if the wires need replacing) I have already put in new platinum plugs (less one that I have to remove the header to get to)
Flushed the oil and replaced with castrol...the engine still seems to have a really rough idle, and wants to stall unless your foot is kept on the throttle. Any tips on what will get this engine healthy once again?

background:
edelbroch fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator currently set at 4 ?, rpm performer intake and heads, and a delco distributor.

Thanks
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 03, 07:05 AM
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Eric
 
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You said you already did plugs and wires, did you do points? What about the cap and rotor? I would do points, condenser, cap, and rotor next; then maybe a fresh fuel filter and some good gas.

The carb might like a good go-through if it is still rough when you are done with the ignition and fuel filter. Sometimes new gaskets and blowing carb cleaner through all the little passages and air bleeds helps a lot on a car that has been sitting.

Fresh fluids in the tranny and rear end wouldn't hurt either - at least then you would know "what you got".

E85 racer and E85 carb builder

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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 03, 07:12 AM
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J
 
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Generally, if a car has been sitting for more than a year you should change all the fluids: oil, tranny, rear, brake, power steering & coolant. Carb also probably needs a good cleaning. Most likely its all gummed up.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 06:35 AM
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robert
 
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and get that last sparkplug replaced!

there is always a way to replace the plugs without removing the headers!!!

if something like that is already too much trouble for you, i better warn you: u will face much more difficult problems in the future.

well, good luck.

Z28 1984
'77 355ci/COMP cam 218/224 .464/.470 114 LSA
rollerrockers1.5/9.72 forged pistons
ported '66 461 heads 1.94,1.5/Flowtech shorty headers
edelbrock 600/performer rpm intake
th350/shiftkit/hughes2500stall
4th gen 3.23 10 bolt POSI.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the advice guys, I can assure you that there is NO way that the remaining spark plug can be pulled without removing the header, the exhaust for the front rt. cylinder goes straight past the spark plug, and because of the angle the plug is set in at, header removal is the only option, (I had trouble just putting the new wires on with the headers on)
While this isn't a difficult task, and I know it needs to be done, I wanted to ensure that I had an engine that would kick over before I started looking at anything bigger as a possible problem, but sure enough, wires and plugs (7 anyway, and she kicked right over without an issue.....less the rough idle).
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 03:27 AM
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Eric
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by rolling-robert:
and get that last sparkplug replaced!

there is always a way to replace the plugs without removing the headers!!!

if something like that is already too much trouble for you, i better warn you: u will face much more difficult problems in the future.

well, good luck.
Yes, good point. There probably IS a way to get that last plug out, maybe even without pulling the header --- just hang in there. I've made some special tools to help with the stubborn ones in the past. Here are couple ideas:

1. try using a wrench. Sometimes you can even bend the closed end of the wrench a little for more clearance.
2. Take a 1/2" drive socket and grind two flat spots on it so a wrench will fit on the end of the socket. Then slide the socket all the way onto the plug with the end of the plug sticking through the drive end of the socket. Grab the end of the socket with a wrench and you got it.

E85 racer and E85 carb builder

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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 03:38 AM
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Robert
 
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This might seem like a bad suggestion but what about breaking the ceramic part of the plug off then remove and replace with a shorty of the same heat range as the others.

Robert

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355ci 10:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Comp Mag 280H, Performer RPM, 700r4 (2000 stall), 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB Hotchkis

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369ci 10.3:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Voodoo 276/284, Performer RPM, Holley 650DP ...T56 Magnum, 3.73 Moser 12 bolt
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 03, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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I really appreciate all of the advice guys, I have reviewed the situation, and I am pretty confident that the heads were put on with new plugs, then someone put on aftermarket headers not matched to the heads.
The heads are the RPM performer heads and the plugs come out at a 90 degree angle from the heads surface, not angled at all. Because of this the plug only has about a half inch of clearance before the end of it hits the middle of the header pipe, i think the only way to get it out without removing the header would be to snap off the ceramic end...but then how do i get the new one in??
When I bought the car the glove box had a box of new header bolts, and there was a single header gasket in the back seat, I can only assume that the previous owner had come to the same conclusion that I have.
p.s. does anyone know the torque specs. for header bolts on these heads?
Thanks
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 03, 11:45 AM
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Robert
 
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This is what I was suggesting http://www.mrgasket.com/accelpdf/ACCELplugs.pdf

A whole set might be best to keep things the same. Maybe buy one and measure to see if would work before breaking the old one off. With only 1/2" to work with it doesn't sound to promising.

Robert

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355ci 10:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Comp Mag 280H, Performer RPM, 700r4 (2000 stall), 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB Hotchkis

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369ci 10.3:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Voodoo 276/284, Performer RPM, Holley 650DP ...T56 Magnum, 3.73 Moser 12 bolt
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