Going back to Qjet from Holley hog... ideas? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Im trying to get back to original on the top of my engine and about to have the cast iron intake 3927184 put back on my 350 along with a restored Qjet 7029202 which would give me some better mileage compared to the 750cfm Holley thats on there now. The Holley also is leaking out the main throttle linkage pivot area, so its time.
Should I forsee any issues in this conversion back? Linkage? Clearance issue with the ducted cold air intake, i.e. height problems?
Im having my mechanic do this project so I dont mess it up, he also is installing new valve guide seals at the same time. We found the oil pressure sending unit is leaking bad so that gets a new one and new copper line to the guage as well.
Id like to hear that this is a pretty simple bolt on conversion. Just once it would be neat to not have complications right? [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 06:35 AM
 
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Anytime you go back to stock, you have the advantage of knowing that the factory engineered that application to work. That being said, you will have to change "all" the parts back to factory. If you are using the factory air cleaner with your cowl hood you may need to add a special spacer. Fuel lines may be an issue depending on how origional you want to be. I suggest you get ahold of an assembly manual along with a Classic Camaro catalogue to help your mechanic understand what he has to do to make the car what it once was.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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good point there. For now we are using a single 3/8th rubber fuel line hose, since my Holley uses a single line too. The return line is capped off.
I will change over to the dual line filter and return over the winter months. I hope I dont have to utilize the return line for the Qjet to work properly?

The huge air cleaner assembly fits over the Qjet while its on the bench here. But of course I dont know how it will fit with the Qjet in place until we get to that point next Tue.
I have the assembly manual ready to go with pages marked for him to reference.


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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 07:13 AM
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Hey, click......

No problem with the lack of return line if using a Qjet, just watch the bowl vent tube for overflowing when starting/running.

The height can be resolved one of two ways -- set both manifolds and carbs side-by-side for height comparison or do the swap and measure with clay with a closed hood, one item at a time.

DO NOT have air clnr stud in place, it'll spoil a good evening with your significant other just thinking of the results.

Did you get your 12-14-to-1.5 vdc convertor for the clock? I can get you plans.........

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 07:50 AM
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"We found the oil pressure sending unit is leaking bad so that gets a new one and new copper line to the guage as well."

Hey Click;

Do you run a light and a mechanical gauge?

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Nope Ev I decided against the convertor, since Im always undoing my battery with the ground switch I installed. Id have to constantly adjust the clock that way, Im content with just the battery clock, its good for a year and I can change it pretty simply too. So far its right on the money for time too.
Vintage, I just have the console guage for oil pressure now. No light.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 22nd, 03, 09:41 AM
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Jim, the factory intake should only need the factory aircleaner spacer. The only issue would be your frame stands and motor mounts (350/300s had special ones). The rubber seal should make up the slack/over. You will need to modify your coil bracket if yours is still on the intake. Factory cars had a special one that leaned back more to clear the lower edge of the cleaner.

Luck, Kevin

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 03, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Im picking up my intake tomorrow, boiled and glass beaded, ready for orange paint, should I be looking for any special kind of gasket between Qjet and intake? The old intake had a stainless steel extra wide type gasket plus a rubber one under that. Just curious if there are better gaskets to help keep the bowls from getting too hot.
Kevin, I have the coil bracket now, ready to transfer over to the refurbished intake.
The shop only charged me $30 for the intake work, my buddy there even glass beaded neatly inside all the intake holes. Sure hope this all goes together nicely next Tuesday. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 03, 05:21 PM
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Jim be sure to clean the intake well also remove the heat shield on the bottom it will fill up with glass media.The results are not good if not cleaned good.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 03, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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thanks plum the guys removed the heat shield panel on the inside and blew it all out too. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 03, 11:58 AM
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place paper gasket on the intake manifold, then place steel heat shield gasket on top of that, then place the Quadrajet on top of that.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 03, 11:59 AM
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place paper gasket on the intake manifold, then place steel heat shield gasket on top of that, then place the Quadrajet on top of that.

68 RS/SS 350 Convertible<br /><a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG" target="_blank">http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/393973/compressedimage1.JPG</a>
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