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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old May 3rd, 04, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sothern MD
Posts: 5
Red face

not sure if this souold be in this forum or not but i have a ignition question. I have a 69 coupe no A/C or any crazy crap , but i have a Mallory unilite ignition, and it was fried ( my stupidity) replaced the electronics inside. anyway it wasn't running when i got the car,
The problem is i am getting power to the coil but nothing out of it. only 2 things i think are the problem, 1) ba dground on the firewall. 2) some stupid litle red wire in the bundle of all that stuff and its not on any wiring diagram, but its in the factory original bundle and i have no idea what it goes too. Please help no one i have talk to can figure it out except for these 2 problems. the grond i will try to clean up tomorrow but can anyone tell me what the hell that RED wire is?

69 Camaro X-11<br />02 Suzuki Bandit<br />03 Dodge Dak 4x4 4.7 SLT<br />04 Jeep Liberty 4x4 3.6
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old May 4th, 04, 12:24 PM
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old May 4th, 04, 01:56 PM
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Location: holliston, mass
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Look at sixd8rs' link for installation instructions but be careful of one point.

You'll notice the distributor requires a resistor (to knock down voltage to the distributor to help keep module alive). Our Camaros that were originally equipped with points ignitions also were equipped with special resistor wires, this is a strange looking whitish wire that is has a fiberglass cloth looking insulation on it (because it gets hot). If this wire was replaced at one point (with your mystery red wire??) then the resistor has been disabled. To be sure, get a voltage meter and compare battery voltage to the voltage of your coil (do both tests with the key in the on (Run) position. There should be a voltage drop of about 3 volts, if you have battery voltage to the coil, then you know why you're killin' modules (some last for years wired wrong, others for only seconds). I've heard the mallory units are picky about grounds as well, there is a brown wire in the distributor harness that MUST be connected to a good ground.
Here's a quick module test...
1.key on check voltage to coil, should be 3 or so volts less than battery.
2. test light, one end on ground the other on negative pole on coil (green wire connection) with engine cranking, there should be a quick flashing of the light. this will prove the module is working. if there is no flash, check the ground (brown wire) and retest, if still no flash, (and the timing chain or distributor is not broken (rotor turns right??) then you have a bad module.
If the module works, (flashes) but still no spark, check rotor, cap wires and plugs.
make sure you do not have the negative pole of the coil grounded as this will short the ignition. it's a common newbie mistake to attatch a ground wire to the negative (-) pole of the coil... this is incorrect.
If unsure, disconnect all wires from the negative pole but the green wire from the distributor and retest the "flash" test.

Hope some of this is helpful,

ps, welcome to!!

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old May 5th, 04, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sothern MD
Posts: 5

THanx for your help. I will look into all these options. I think i am getting too much power at the + side of the coil. so i guess the resistor block i have isnt resisting. LOL are these available at local parts store? I will also try the grounding wire. wow you guys really know your stuff. I have dreamed of having one of these since i knew what one was. but they are more complicated that i thought, for such simple things. Once the electrical is figured out i will have no probs with the rest. Electricity and I dont get along very well. LOL thanx again!

69 Camaro X-11<br />02 Suzuki Bandit<br />03 Dodge Dak 4x4 4.7 SLT<br />04 Jeep Liberty 4x4 3.6
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old May 5th, 04, 07:45 PM
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Location: columbus oh.
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correct me if i'm wrong guys,but doesn't a chrysler ballast resistor fill the bill?

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old May 6th, 04, 09:20 AM
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The mallory part number if memory serves me is no. 700. A mopar resistor i'm sure will work, as well as one for a points ignition.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old May 6th, 04, 03:36 PM
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Location: Ct.
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The Chrysler ballast resistor does fit the bill. You are correct. The Mallory instructions even go into detail about which resister to get. I have one on my setup and it works just fine. I can't remember but I think that I ran a switched 12v lead from the fuse box to the ballast resistor, grounded one side of the ballast resistor and then ran the 12v out to the high fire IV box. The high fire IV box then put the 12v to the coil. I am going to look for the instructions now. I found my instructions and they call for a
Dual/ Four terminal ignition ballast resistor for 1975 Chrysler applications
. Note* if you aren't using a Mallory HyFire IV box then all my typing might just be wasted. With my setup there is not 12v at the coil directly, the coil voltage comes from the HyFire box. The resistor part number is NAPA ECHLIN ICR24 Coil Resistor.

[ 05-06-2004, 05:56 PM: Message edited by: phel69 ]

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