Adjusting hydraulic rollers - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Al
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Vancouver, USA
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This one has me baffled...hopefully it's just a brain cramp and someone can set me straight.

When adjusting my hyd roller with the engine NOT running (which really should be the same as a FT hydraulic, right?) the book says to adjust the valve to zero lash and then an extra half turn (or whatever).

Here is my problem/question. I determine "zero lash" by tightenig the locknut and at the same time spinning the pushrod between my fingers. When I can no longer spin the pushrod, I assume I'm at zero lash. Problem is, after I've given the locknut its additional half turn, about ten secons later, I can spin the pushrod between my fingers again. I understand that I'm probably just squeezing some oil out of the lifter....but how do you know when enough is enough? It seems that I could repeat this process several times.....should I back the rocker all the way out and just do it once and call it good? I guess my question is...what is a valid starting point to this whole process? How do you really know how much oil is in the lifter when you start? I hope I'm making sense.

Thanks for all replies!

BPOS out.


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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 08:19 PM
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Instead of spinning the pushrod, just wiggle it back & forth while you tighten the nut. You can feel and hear when the clearance is taken up. I've heard of people spinning & tightening until they bottomed out their lifters, tightening another full turn, & then wondering why it doesn't work. You can always readjust them after you get it running if you want to.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 03, 10:40 AM
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Mark
 
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Location: LR AR
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The problem is that if you are asking how to adjust the lifters, you probably should not be using the "spin the pushrod" method. Spin the pushrod only works if you already have a feel for it. A well lubricated pushrod spins just fine thank you even after it has reached zero lash and well on into the adjustment "zone". The pushrod gets noticably tighter as you run out of the adjustment zone and bottom out on the lifter where the valve spring pressure comes into play but by that time you are way too far down on the adjustment and the valve is lifting off the seat.

Maybe we should recomend tightning the nut untill all the "up & down" motion is gone plus 1/4 turn? Just a thought.

-Mark.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 03, 09:55 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
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i just get rid of all the "up and down" motion on my pushrods, then move onto the next one. after i do all 16 of them, i then go turn all of them another 1/2 turn and lock them down. seems to work well for me- except this spring when i changed to thinner head gaskets and didn't get a rocker arm locknut tightened all the way down, causing the pushrod to fall out and take out the neighboring pushrod and mangle 2 GM roller rocker arms- a tad bit over $100 in damage, but it could have been MUCH worse for my 3 year old $3500 engine. when i fixed it, i triple checked ALL the poly locks, just in case.

you don't plan sincerity.
you have to make it up on the spot.

wanna hear about 20 years ago when i was too smart to know any better?
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