6-Cylinder Carb questions - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Okay, yeah I have the 6-cylinder in my 68 Camaro, but at this time I cant afford to replace it yet, so I am trying to get it running better.

My question is that the carb on it is not the original carb and I took it to a local shop and they said that they could not lean it out enough so that it will run perfect. It is a Holley 1 barrel carb...Is there a better carb I can get for this motor so that it will have more power and run better? Is it best to stick with an original carb or are there any recommendations as to what will work good with this motor? I am pretty sure it is a 230 motor with a new 250 head on it, including a new valve job.

Thanks for any advice...
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 05:23 AM
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Make sure the intake ex gaskets aren't leaking. The early motors have a bad habit of loosing them. I always used the earlier Rochester carbs because that is what I had. The 68 up carbs are better (at least the Rochester ones) The Holley one barrel you have I have not dealt with but it shouldn't be a problem they usually work well.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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The gaskets look like they might be original...is there an easy way to check they to see if they are leaking?
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 06:35 AM
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if the head is new, I'd think the manifold gaskets would be, too. (possible someone lifted the head, manifolds, and carb as one peice off another Motor tho.) Leaky intake gasket would cause a vacuam leak and a lean mixture. Easiest test would be to spray wd40 around the joints with the engine running, if the idle sped changes, you found a leak.

Could you elaborate a lil on the "could not lean it out enuf..." Are we talking idle mixture, or cruise or? how does the engine respond to throttle? Does it bog or hesitate? Is the idle smooth? Have you verified that the choke linkage is free and the choke works and is opening all the way when the engine warms? Do you own a vacuam guage?





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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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The head was rebuilt so I would assume the gasket is good. I will do the wd40 test to make sure...

He said the the idle speed had to be set where is is, and not to try to adjust it to make it idle any faster for some reason, not sure...but basically just said that it may be the wrong carb on there and that he could not lean it out enough to run properly, he said it has a "flat spot". it idles okay after warming up, the choke appears to be working fine...i sprayed carb cleaner in and around it, it basically does not take off to good in first gear I have to really goose the gas to get it to go and then while it is running in second and third, it kind of hesitates a bit...he set the timing, dwell, and it has new cap, points, plugs, wires on it....
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 07:14 AM
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off idle flat spots are usually caused by lean mixtures. Could be a vacuam leak still. Do the test, and check the vacuam lines and pcv system.

Check the accellerator pump. with the motor off, air cleaner off, and choke open, you should see fuel squirt into the carb throat if you move the throttle liknage even the littlest bit. There'll be a linkage rod from the throttle to the pump, and you adjust it ny bending it.

If you have a timing light and vacuam guage, you could try a lil "non-stock" tuning to try to smooth things out. Let us know, and we'll post some info.

Checking the plugs will shed some light on what's happening. The ceramic center of the plug should be light tan, and the electrodes should be clean. You can do a web search, maybe go to champion.com or something to see pictures of what plugs look like depending on what's not right.





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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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Okay, I did the wd40 test and there isnt any leaks...I pulled all the lugs and they look really clean and like you say, a light tan. I also checked the fuel squirt into the carb and there is a little bit of play before the throttle is actually moved, and then just barly moving it, the fuel kind of looks like it pours into the carb, and further movement the fuel actually squirts in...i am talking just barley barley moving it is kind of looks like it is pouring not really a squirt...as far as the vaccum lines, i only have the one going to the pcv valve...the others are plugged.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 08:01 AM
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ok then, good so far... get a vacuam guage and a timing light. Warm the engine. Pull the vacuam hose off the distributor and connect it to the guage. Hook up the timing light and fire it up.

Note where the timing is now. Note the reading at idle on the vacuam guage. If the vacuam guage is bouncing all over the place, stop and holler.

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt, and rotate thedistributor to advance the timing 2 degrees. If the vacuam went up, advance another 2. Repeat till the vacuam doesn't increase, then back down 2 degrees and lock the distributor down.

Hook the vacuam advance back up, use the tee fitting to also have the vacuam guage connected. Adjust the idle speed till you're happy with it, or 6-700 rpm if you have a tahc. The speed probably went up when you advanced the timing.

Shut the engine down. Screw the idle MIXTURE screw all the way in till it lightly bottoms. Count the turns and note it. Put it back where you found it and fire it up. Whatching the vacuam guage, turn the idle mixture screw, either way, half a turn. If the vacuam goes up, do it again. If not, go the other way. Keep turning to max vacuam. Readjust the idle speed if nessessary, and peak the vacuam guage with the mixture screw Again.

Put everything back together and drive the car. If it pings, back the timing down 2 degrees and try it again. Good luck!!





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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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wow...that seems like it is complicated. I dont have a vaccum gauge, so maybe now is a good time and this is a good reason to get one [img]smile.gif[/img] So it dosent sound like it is a carburator problem? I called a couple carburator shops and they said it sounds like maybe a flooding problem...they want from $100 to $150 to rebuild...
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 08:32 AM
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Try some tuning first...it certainly won't hurt. It's not real complicated, but there's a lot of details.

The standard timing on a six will be real conservative, like 4 or 6 degrees. It'll run a lot better at 10 or so.

If the tuning doesn't do it, you can probably get a rebuilt carb at rockauto.com for cheap. 100-150 is a lot to rebuild a 1bbl carb, and if you buy a whole carb, you can get the correct one for the application.





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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you very much for your help. I will try to tune it and see what results I can get...I really appriciate your help with this.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 01:25 PM
 
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FWIW, A carb. kit should be cheap and the old-time, one and two barrel carb's, are almost stupidly simple!!

I rebuilt one in a Motel bathroom sink one time while on the road on the RR way back when I was a kid using a can of carb. cleaner, pipe cleaners and an old tooth brush.

I guess I would think long AND hard before I would shell out THAT kinda money on something like this!!

Jmho..

Been there, done all this...

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 04:03 PM
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Make sure the accelerator pump is giving enough fuel and is timed correctly. Inline motors are real particular about the acceletator pump systems. Make sure that the gasket between the intake and exhaust manifold at the heat riser is the open type. If it has the blocked one in there it simply will not run correctly when the weather gets cold.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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how do you know or check the accelerayor pimp to make sure it is working right?
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 04, 06:20 PM
 
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If you hold it so the slack is out of it and push the linkage, it should squirt gas out the nozzle inside the barrel/venturi, that's how.

Some of them have an extra hole or two and others you have to bend the pump linkage a bit to adjust it. The holes are like on a Q-Jet and the linkage is like on what you are talking about, but it's been years since I played with one.

Heck, I may get to soon again b/c my old P/U I recently bought has a two barrel on it's 250-6 motor..

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