oil pump replacement(in car) - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 03, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
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I was told told that removing the pump with the engine(sb) in my 69 is possible, although I didnt get any details. As I understand you can put a piece of steel rod through the hole in the sub-frame and push the motor up that way? I cant seem to get anything else in there. Any, help would be greatly helpful. I dont really have access to a engine hoist at the time and I really would prefer not to take the engine out. Also do you have to remove the rear crossmember? Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 03, 06:56 PM
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I have never done it in a camaro, but have on many other vehicles and can say this...if there is any way you can get the engine out to repalce the oil pump, then by all means do it. Usually you have to unbolt the engien and tranny mounts, and then jack up the front of the motor (floor jack with a piece of 2x4 works good). This is normally the only way the pan will come out from underneath the car enough to change the pump...and it may still not come all the way out. The biggest problem is trying to get everything to seal back up right while working on your back on something you can't see (oil pan rail). It is almost impossible on most cars to get all the oil, grease, grunge, and old gasket material off the pan and block if you can't get the pan out from under the car.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 03, 08:21 PM
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It can be done, but it is no fun. I put a rear main seal in a 69 Z/28 a few months ago.

Drop the starter and motor mount bolts, and remove the fan and/or shroud and distributer cap. Then you must lift the engine quite high for the pan to clear the crossmember when you try to remove it(be sure the rear trans mount is not broken before you lift). You will need some sort of lift, you wont be able to simply pry the engine up high enough. And if at all possible, let the car set for a day or two without starting it before you start to work on it.....unless you like the taste of motor oil.

BE CAREFULL. you dont want the engine to drop on your arms while you are digging around between the block and the crossmember.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 03, 04:58 AM
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I think kamero68 hit the nail on the head. The only other things that I do is loosen the bolts on the tranny mount and remove drivers side valve cover to clear the brake booster. You basically have to lift the engine until it is hard against the transmission tunnel and starts to lift the car.

It is definately no fun, and an engine hoist is the ONLY way to go IMO. I tried the bar through the frame hole technique and quit . . . its too unstable and you cannot get the engine high enough safely. Unless someone knows how to make a jig that works really good, use an engine hoist.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 03, 05:00 AM
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A quick safety addition. After you get the engine raised up enough, put a block of wood between the motor mounts and the frame mounts and then lower the engine onto the blocks. This will keep the engine steady and reduce the chance that will loose a finger, hand or arm. Remember the engine is very heavy and can cause serious bodily harm. After you loosen the oil pan, You may have to rotate the engine to move the front counter- weight on the engine to allow you to move the pan rearward. If you have a stock pan you will have to make sure that you lower the pan far enough to provide clearance between the oil pan baffle and the pump pickup. Good Luck.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 03, 05:12 AM
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Turn the engine over until the tdc timing mark is at the 5 oclock position as this will get the front crank counter weights out of the way.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 03, 01:14 PM
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I thought about trying to replace my pan gasket with the engine in the car, eyeballed the possibilities, and then I pulled the engine.

One idea I did come up with, though. On the front of the block, either side of the timing cover, are some threaded bolt holes. I believe these were used for very early motor mounts. Anyway, if you were to cut some pieces of stout angle iron and bolt them to the motor using these holes. Cut them so they hang down below the front crossmember a few inches...one on each side...then weld another piece of angle iron between these two. You would basically have a U-shaped contraption bolted to the front of the motor, hanging down below the crossmember. You could put a floor jack the bottom part of that "U", and raise the engine that way. O course, like others have said, remove the distributor, driver's side valve cover, and unbolt the rear trans mount. You might also consider disconnecting the exhaust system some how.

I think it would be easier to pull the engine. Nevermind.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 03, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, looks like its going to be a pain in the $&^! I wish these things could happen when the motor is out of the car(ha,ha) I'm going to try the to remove it without taking the engine out. But if all fails pull the motor.
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