700r4 rotor pump blues - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 02, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: puntagorda fl u.s.
Posts: 122
this is the 2nd pump to break a rotor in a superior pump the 1st was there tough pump the 2nd the super race pump rated for 700 horses. its not a install problem they just seem to let go after a while about 2 weeks regular driveing an about 15 hard pulls ive got maybe 500 hp an maybe 460fpt. any ideas any body else have this prob. could it have anthing to do with having the mains align bored?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 02, 03:16 PM
Join Date: May 2001
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FWIW ,,,, we had a group of pump rotors break about 1.5 years ago. they would shatter into 3 - 8 pieces.

We found that an OEM rotor or a new rotor with the letter "H" next to the drive teeth on the rotor where the converter hub lugs in are the only two good rotors to use in a h.p. situation.


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 02, 07:56 PM
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go read strengthening the 2004r here. It goes into detail. http://www.2004rperformancecenter.co...q.asp?faq_id=4

scroll down to pumps or read the whole thing.

Thank You
Bruce Toelle
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 02, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the input its a 700r4 we keep breaking but found the article insightfull, we think the problem might be related to the mains in the engine being alignbored. causing a bind or alignment problem. any more ideas please forward.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 02, 01:51 PM
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Location: Austin, TX, USA
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I wouldn't think align boring would cause a problem if the pilot and converter knob line up well, but I suppose it's possible.

I wonder if this test would confirm it or not. Install one bolt between the converter and flex plate with a small shim in between. Then rotate the motor and measure the converter to flex-plate clearance at the other lugs. I would imagine that you'll see a significant offset if their is a problem (10s of thousanths of an inch). To make sure your measurements are correct, you could repeat the test with the bolt in another hole. Some marks on the flywheel / converter would be useful to translate your measurements.

What is breaking exactly? Is the pump rotor breaking into pieces? Are just the converter tabs breaking off? What about the slide assembly or rings - are they Ok? I presume you've had to replace the whole pump assembly each time, so it shouldn't be a regulator valve problem. Any chance the converter hub or mounting ears are out of alignmnet. Perhaps you could remove the tranny, bolt the converter up to the motor and check run-out with a dial guage while turning the motor over by hand. That is probably a better test than my low budget suggestion above.


[This message has been edited by dnult (edited 08-14-2002).]
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 02, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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we now think it may be the fact that im using an oem flexplate not capable of handling this hp and stall. gonna put in a tci an try again.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 02, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Webster, N.Y. USA
Posts: 39
The Pump doesn't know how much power the engine is putting out. There are definately some instances of sub-par Rotors out in the marketplace and that could easily be your problem. The other thing is that 700's have been tearing Pumps up for a long time due to how the Pump operates. This is one of the reason I use and recommend the TransGo Pump Parts and the SK or Reprogramming Kit- they address these issues. If the vehicle is a wheel stander or hard puller and for even a split second it draws air it could be causing this too.

For direct tranny questions: E-mail with subject "tranny problems"
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