Yep, a stroke increase from the stock 3.48 to 3.75 will get you a 383.
There are some other changes though that are required to increase the stroke in a 350.
1. New pistons. The distance the wrist pin is from the top of the piston needs to be shortened. This is more commonly known as compression height. Many piston manufacturers have shelf pistons with proper compression heights for 5.7", 6.0", or 5.565" long connecting rods.
2. The block needs to be clearanced for the stroker crank. The rod bolts often hit right at the oil pan rails, nothing a die grinder can't fix in an hour. The counterweight (often the rear one) can sometimes hit the oil pan rail too, again - easily fixed with a die grinder. All these contact points need to be opened up to .050-.060"
3. The longer arm crank comes much closer to the camshaft lobes on cylinders #1, 2, 5, and 6. When assembling you have to check clearance between the cam lobe and the conn rod. The top of the rod bolt can be lightly ground to add a few thou clearance or you can use a small base circle camshaft. Again, you need at least .050"
4. When you increase the stroke you are also increasing the compression ratio. If you used a flat top piston and a 64cc head in your 350 the compression ratio was a pump gas friendly 10:1. If you use the same 64cc head and a flat ttop piston in a 383 your compression is into the ping-city range at 11:1.
The extra TQ and HP a 383 makes over a 350 is well worth every extra bit of effort IMO. I don't think I'll ever build another 350 . . .
If you need any help with your build just post.
E85 racer and E85 carb builder
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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle