Feedback carburetor - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 05, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've got a 1984 Camaro Berlinetta (305 V8) I'm trying to get running right again, and I've grown rather stumped. I think the blame may lay on the pathetic Rochester 4-bbl "feedback" carburetor, but I am not sure. When you start it cold, it runs very rough until the choke opens, then runs great. You can go out and drive it for about 15-20 minutes, and it'll run beautifully, and then after that when you put your foot into the gas it'll start missing and spit back thru the carburetor, and the longer you drive it the worse it will get. I've sprayed cleaner into the carburetor, removed the catalytic converter, replaced the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the ECM as well as the air filter. I de-activated the A.I.R. system long ago. I've put an accel HEI Super coil, new plugs, and new wires on it within the past couple years, they'e got less than 15k miles on them. The car sat for about a year, after my ex took it, and I've finally gotten it back and I am trying to make it run right again. I wish everything were as simple to work on as the 6 cylinder '68 Plymouth Valiant that is my daily go-to-work car. anyone please lend me some advice to get this camaro back running right again, its too nice of a car to go to waste.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 05, 08:08 PM
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Since it sounds like emission requirements are not a concern, ditch the carb, distributor, and ECM.

Using a Q-jet and distributor from an earlier car that doesn't have CCC would really clean up a bunch of wiring, sensors, and hoses under the hood.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 05, 05:44 AM
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Try this... Cover the top of the carb with a shop rag (engine off). Turn your air compressor pressure down to 10 lbs or less. Stick the air nozzle in the bowl vent tube on top of the carb (1/4" tube sticking up between the primary and secondary blades). Give it a shot or two of air. Then see if it starts working again.

Sometimes the power valve will get stuck open. This little trick will sometimes dislodge the power valve and clear the idle air bleeds of debri. If it works, it may be time for a rebuild.

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 05, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Good idea, i'll have to try it and see what happens. It only messes up after you've been driving it for a while (outside of running REALLY bad until the choke opens). I can't believe I didn't think of doing something like that beforehand. Honestly, I'm a little intimidated by the Rochester E4ME carburetor. I've been spoiled by the nicely simple Holley 1920 that my Valiant's slant six has on it. I sprayed some gumout in the carb and into the vacuum ports, etc, but I didn't think to spray or put air pressure into that vent tube for some reason. I'll post the results of what happens after I try that, and if anyone has any other ideas/suggestions, let me know
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 05, 04:00 PM
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Is the choke sticking? It's common for the choke to stick if the air cleaner lid has been over tightened. It will warp the airhorn enough that the choke plate doesn't move freely. Sounds like there is more going on than that though. How about the pull-off mechanism. Does the choke plate open up some when the engine starts? If the pull-off is leaky, it can let the choke plate close enough to over choke the motor. Might even show up near WOT when the manifold vacuum drops and the engine is warm - not hot.

Dave
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68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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