Engine stands - how do judge quality? - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 03, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Peter
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 364
Question

There are a lot of people selling engine stands - for example http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=35625
- but how can you tell if it is a quality piece or will fall apart on you? Would anyone recommend a particular brand? Some of the large companies, e.g, Jegs, etc. sell stands but they are a lot more expensive, and I'm not sure whether the quality is any different. What to do?

Peter
coach420 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 03, 01:09 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Post

Some engine stands look pretty flemsy, but I've never heard of one falling apart. There is no need to have a 2000 lbs engine stand. If you're not rebuilding engines for a living, the $49 stands and Harbor Freight are adequate. The only component of an engine stand that I would concern myself with is the wheels. I prefer the heavy cast rear wheels and ball bearing front wheels. I believe most have them.

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 03, 01:11 PM
Tech Team
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Bethpage, Tn
Posts: 69
Angry

There was a special on "Hot Rod T.V." or "Trucks" or something like that where they compared a few different brands. Besides name brand, color & shape there were few differences.

There are some main differences that Im finding out due to the fact that I have a engine on a stand right now and noticing some things that I would like to change.

1. Make sure that it has some decen tsize wheels like around 3-4 inch diameter and make sure that there very, VERY hard rubber not metal. The ones on mine now are small metal and God forbid that you runs across a speck or "oil dry" because it will lock a loaded engine stand up.

2. Its usually better to have a 4 leg stand than a 3 because a oil drain pan or bucket is hard to balance on a third leg located right below the oil pan when you can buy one with 4 legs so that the pan will sit right between the 2 front ones.

3. All should have it by now, but make sure that it has a locking pin/bolt/something to keep the engine from sliding forward and falling outof the engine stand.

These are just my opinions and I say that because Im working with my fathers engine stand right now, and it has "senamental" value because it was his grandpa's so it lacks a few nice traits that the newer ones have. Hope that this helped!
speedball1969 is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 03, 03:59 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
John
 
Vintage 68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Moraga,Ca.,USA
Posts: 13,705
Post

'how to judge quality?' - in most cases, Price!

My best - is an 'Ing's' (spelling?) I got from a truck shop auction many years ago. Square tube bottom, 4 large casters, 3X3 rear upright with a gear reduction rotator on it! It will hold a Cummins NTC 350 with no problem - been-there-done-that.
It's holding a BB right now and isn't breaking a sweat! Paid under $100.oo at auction - they sold for $300~400 new. One of the best shop investments I ever made.

My worse is a cheapy 'Speed-Shops' (remember them!) special. Think it cost @$20.oo - and it works and looks like it. It drooped with my daughter's 1.5L 4-popper on it. I use it to hold bare blocks while I clean and paint them usually - then move the block to a better stand to assemble.

The others are pretty good bought or home builds that fill the need. They all have pivot retaining devices and if not square bases they have an added front cross-bar like the one in your link to held prevent tipping. Several have Chevy pattern mounts only (helps me get out of helping my wayward Furd friends ) and the others are adjustable.

Follow all the info givin in the other replies and buy the best one you can afford - then rent it to your friends when your not using it to regain your investment - worked for me! [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Oh - and paint it "Chevy Orange" as soon as you get it!

1968 Convertible
Some trucks
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Other V8 things - some of which float
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Other V6 things - none of which float
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Oh yeah, and 1 "Straight-Six" ...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


If a man says something in the garage - and his wife can't hear him - is he still wrong !!!
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Vintage 68 is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 03, 12:27 PM
Senior Tech
Eric
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Kentwood, MI
Posts: 8,097
Post

How to judge quality when they're in a box - weight. Cheapos are made of light grade steel, better ones weigh a bit more . . .

I've had good luck with Sears brand personally.

E85 racer and E85 carb builder

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
Eric68 is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 03, 04:16 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,208
Thumbs down

I stopped at Auto Zone today and checked out stands. Boy was I disappointed! They have a complete 305 engine on a stand up near the check out. Even the manager was a little skeptical with the strength of it. I kind of moved the motor and it started bouncing slightly and looked as it it could even break! The manager said that was the only one they stocked. I think it would have been a good one if you were just working on the block. The added weight of the heads, intake and carb made me nervous!


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
supv26 is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 03, 03:56 AM
Moderator
Bill
 
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: Waldorf Md. USA
Posts: 3,288
Post

Peter,
If you are willing to pay the price for a tool that will last a lifetime...check these out:
http://www.axeequipment.com/es40.htm

I think they are in the $350 range, but will hold a fullblown Marine 502 with a 6-78 Blower and all the water cooled exhaust on it...and not even flinch.

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BillK is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 03, 10:53 AM
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 21,341
Angry

Boy, those two are beautiful Bill..

Way outta my price range but for the Pro motor builder or a guy flush with bucks, either one would be a great addition to a good shop.

pdq67



pdq67 is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 03, 09:59 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Posts: 431
Post

I got a 1250# Chinese one from a local tool outlet for ~$70. It has a U-shaped (horizontal) lower frame that you can stand on when you're torquing head bolts. That way the stand doesn't try to move around. Might put a platform over it for a bar-stool too. Whatever you do, use good quality bolts to attach the engine. Grade 8 if possibe, no less than Grade 5.
jimfulco is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 03, 03:38 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 452
Post

I got two cheap ones- the ones with the three wheels and I just added a brace between the lower frame and upright part that holds engine and they have held up well over the years even with my big blocks on them
edd Gordon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome