Engine jacking questions...**updated** - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 03, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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I am trying to remove the rear PS pump bracket on my '68 RS with a 350. From what I understand 2 motor mount bolts need to be removed to get the rear bracket off, but there does not seem to be enough clearance on the rearward most bolt to remove it without lifting the motor up away from the engine stand about 1" or so.


Where is the safest place to jack up the engine? Is there danger of caving in the oil pan if I use a 2x6 to spread the load? I should disconnect the headers and/ or collectors first, yes? I've never done this before and I don't want to damage any parts...

[ 08-09-2003, 12:39 PM: Message edited by: choptop ]


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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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T3


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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 10:34 AM
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If I am only going to raise the engine an inch or so I use a piece of 1X4 and place it along the edge of the oil pan (on the side bolts) and slowly raise the engine with my jack. This will give me enough clearance to get at soft plugs or mounts etc.
Place a Safety Block of 2X4(s) between the pan and frame before sticking you paws up in there anywhere.
Raise the engine slowly and check constantly for clearances at dist. cap, heater core, exhaust pipes & etc.. at each pump of jack.
Do not try to raise it by the Damper.
I haven't ever tried the Pan with 2X6 method of which you speak - but it just sounds wrong to me.

My .02

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 11:55 AM
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When my mechanic changed my rear oil seal, he put a round solid steel rod up thru the hole in the front crossover frame, under the timing wheel behind the main pully. He then jacked up against that to clear the pan.
Maybe other have other ideas too.
good luck
[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 12:02 PM
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Click;

Was he raising it by the Vibration Damper???

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 01:00 PM
 
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I have used a 2x4 lengthwise to raise several motors at the damper!!!

NO problems whatsoever!!

But I don't get carried away jacking the small hydraulic jack...

AND, I have used a 3/4"x8"x8" piece of plywood on the pan AND again lifted real easy so as not to dimple the pan!!

Also used the board by the pan rail, too... When I just needed to rotate it on one side..

AND as stated, crib the sucker up so that it doesn't come down on you!!!!! Plus, loosen anything that gets in your way so it can be lifted high enough to do what you want.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 01:01 PM
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The big thick round piece that has the timing marks on it. Is that a vibration dampner? If so, thats it, only long enuf to get wood blocks under the engine mounts after removing the bolts from them.
Seems to work well.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 01:17 PM
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I worked on an "engine vibration" years ago that started just after the owner had the engine mounts replaced - naturally I suspected a bad new mount and replaced them again = same thing. Replaced the trans mount = same.
Played with the sucker for a whole day - later that evening, while another mech. was in car cycling engine, I raised on hoist to look around under car and noticed the Damper 'looked funny' - kinda wobbled! Checked it out and sure enough - Bent Crank Snout! Had to replace Crank.
The other mech. had jacked engine by damper - when customer complained mech. said "take it to the dealer, I didn't do anything".
I wrote a nice note for the guy to take to court with him - he came back and tipped me $100.oo! (after he won in court).

I never had and still don't jack by the damper.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions guys! I was thinking of using the oil pan bolt area at first, but I was worried that I might damage the pan lip or seal. I'm also worried if I use a 2x6 on the pan that it still might cave in somewhat. Think I'll try the pan bolt area as Vintage 68 suggests.

I only need to get at the driver's side mount, so should I disconnect the header from the head on that side (tight clearance on the steering box) or just at the collector like I plan on doing for the passenger side? Do I need to loosen the motor mount bolt slightly on the passenger side to allow the motor to pivot? Should I take out the trans mount bolt (turbo 400) or just loosen it somewhat?

I do plan on blocking up the motor with some wood so I don't mash my fingers!


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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 03:12 PM
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The 1X4 (or whatever you can fit up in there) rests on the pan bolt heads so it doesn't put much force on the pan rail. I store engines in my shop on this area with no damage at all.
I think you need to check Collector to ??? clearances very carefully before deciding if you need to take the flange or collector loose. I usually take the flange (and plugs!) off because it is easier to work 'up-top' on most cars.
You can leave the right (passenger) bolt in if you are only lifting the left side. There should not be an issue with the trans mount for the slight amount you are talking about raising - but you could loosen it if you want, just remember what all you loosen up!
Be very carefull with right side engine to ??? clearances as you lift, as the engine will be pivoting over to that side. Easy to crush A/C box etc. if present.

Good luck with your project!

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Vintage 68! I will be very careful- nothing like having to replace good parts that you've ruined accidentally [img]graemlins/angry.gif[/img] !


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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 05:23 PM
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I'd also remove the dist cap, and perhaps loosen the fan shroud.


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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 11:47 PM
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Ya know scott if you need you can come over to my place and use the engine hoist and I can give you a hand sometime if you like?

Zack

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 4th, 03, 11:50 PM
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[ 08-05-2003, 02:08 AM: Message edited by: Zack67 ]

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 5th, 03, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the offer Zack! Unfortunately my car is not mobile and in the middle of a major reworking: complete bracket/ pulley overhaul to serpentine and total rewiring due to an electrical problem.

Right now all belt driven accessories, brackets and pulleys are off of the motor. The wiring is in such a sad state that I don't trust it anymore. I could use a hand though if you have some spare time...is your hoist portable?


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